Vogue 1250 - the easiest Donna Karan dress, ever

I had to fly to Denver for the day yesterday (I live in St. Louis), and happened to find myself parked next to a Joann's on my way to my lunch appointment. Well, looky here, the Vogue patterns were on sale for $3.99 and me with an hour to kill...what to do, what to do.

You know what I found out? Reading through pattern instructions is an awesome way to kill time on a plane. I picked up eight of the new ones that I'd been eyeballing, and by the time I got home last night I was super excited to start Vogue 1250, a cowl-neck Donna Karan dress pattern for knits.


This past winter I bought one of my favorite fabrics ever online, a black and cream Theory knit from Emma One Sock. It was $20 a yard, probably one of the most expensive fabrics I've ever ordered! When it got here, though, it was worth every penny. It feels like heaven and I love the graphic sweater print.


As soon as I saw Vogue 1250, I knew it would be perfect for this fabric. It also helped that the lovely and talented Carolyn made this same pattern this week in a black and white print, so I knew it would work.


The pattern does not disapoint. I cut a straight 14, adding an inch at the waistline and 1/2" at the hem because that's all the fabric I had. I also extended the cowl by about 1/2" but there is easily room to add 3" or more to make sure that baby stays tucked down while you're wearing it.

I ended up tacking the cowl in the center front to make sure it won't flip. You can't even see seams in this fabric, so I knew a few tacking stitches wouldn't show.

The worst part about the whole project was my own serger. The seams were rippling, the stitches were packed together, the whole experience was frustrating me! It was literally almost the very end (of the very short five-step patterns) when I realized I'm a complete idiot. The tension setting bar had been pulled down (two guesses who did that) and it was set to ripple! So the serger is happily doing exactly what I asked it to do, and I was all boo-hooing my ripply seam over my butt.


After I adjusted it and fixed the offending seams, I was much happier and the dress looks better.


I think this is a super versatile pattern because in a solid you can appreciate the seaming and lines, and in a print there aren't too many construction details to break up the pattern. Also, in a sweater and boots it's totally practical for winter-ish weather too. Don't get me wrong, I don't expose my legs in the dead of winter, but there are plenty of weeks before and after that to wear this.


The fit is pretty good. If only I could come to grips with the fact that my bottom half is a 16, not a 14, I think it would look better. Oh, well, live and learn.


What would a blog post of mine be without the resident co-dependent dog joining in the fun?

Next up on the cutting table, a pair of camel tropical wool trousers for work. I'm going to tweak Simplicity 2700 again and get it right this time, if it kills me. Also? I'm determined to add a tuxedo stripe down the side, don't ask me why. Stay tuned...

Fail, possibly fail, and TBD

Ok, you know how most sewing bloggers don't post their failures? Well, I'm going to take a detour from that route and show you some colossal (well, one colossal and one minor and one yet-to-be-determined) fails that came out of my sweatshop this month.

It's a tale of three dresses, two patterns, two fabrics, and one sew-ist. Sew-er. Whatever. I still am not happy with the words for "people who sew."

The story starts with a piece of black and ivory floral ITY jersey knit from my stash. I bought it at JoAnn's many months ago and pulled it out a few weeks ago to make the dress version of Vogue 1020. I had seen Victoria's stretch lace dress and LOVED it. I also bought the lace print, which we will get to later, but for now let's just focus on the print that wasn't to be.

I had just enough fabric to make the dress, and I wanted to branch out of my comfort zone and underline the entire thing with power mesh to keep my bits from jiggling. Also, I didn't want to have to wear Spanx.

I cut it out, and tediously tacked the lining to the main fabric, then started in on sewing. I had assembled the shoulders and sleeves and was set to put the sides together (because of the ruching, that's how the assembly went this time), when I had my MOMENT. The moment in most of my sewing projects where I say OH CRAP.


I had failed to flip one of the pieces right side up when cutting it! The front and back sections on this dress, and others like it, aren't straight up and down. They take a huge curve to get extra fabric for you to ruche. So instead of two matching Cs, I had two opposing Cs! I crumpled it up and threw it in the UFO basket. A month later, I've pulled it out, ruched both sides instead of just the one, and put it together. Maybe it'll be ok? I'm going to let it hang and simmer while I think on it a bit. The jury is still out on it.


I loved that print, I have no idea why. So I went back to Joann's for more, only this time I was going to be super smart and do an entirely different pattern.

I chose McCall's 6163. Most of the reviewers loved it, and I liked some of the different style points - the sleeves, the ruching, the back shaped seam. So in I started again, tediously lining the front and back sections and putting it all together.


I had checked my measurements and cut my standard 14 again. Only, instead of adding a few inches to the length as I almost always have to do, I had this vague recollection of a tall pattern reviewer noting this pattern ran long. So I didn't do that.


Whoo-eee! This is the tightest, shortest dress I think I've ever made for myself! I wear an 8 or 10 in RTW and this easily would fit someone who wears a 6 or even smaller. Also? The length unhemmed is above my knee. Now, to be fair, the pattern does call it an above-mid-knee dress, and in going back over the reviews I can't find anyone who says it runs long, so I'm sure I imagined that in my own mind.


Pfft. Crumpled it up, set it aside. There is no way I am going to assemble and attach the collar and stand for a dress that wouldn't have fit me in the seventh grade. This one is the colossal fail.

Sigh. On to the third dress of 2011. Like I mentioned earlier, I bought the lace print ITY jersey at Joann's after seeing Victoria's version of Vogue 1020. I hadn't intended to make the exact same dress, but after screwing up the first version I was determined to get it right.

This time, all went well! I got the curves cut right, the fit was good, I didn't line the sleeves (found out after doing that that it added too much bulk to the sleeve seam and was unnecessary as I don't typically wear Spanx on my arms).


I hemmed it up and promptly stuck it in my suitcase to take to a work meeting out of town. The day came for me to wear it, and my heart sunk. Not only is it a wee bit short (?), but I failed to let it hang and in hemming, the fashion fabric hangs over the hem of the underlining power mesh. Poop.


That one, I think I can fix. I just have to take out the double-needle hem (drat) and let it breathe, and then hem it up again, this time a little longer.

So there you have it. Possible fail, colossal fail, and a goof-up. All in the month of January, and all with two jerseys from Joann's.

I really had higher hopes for February, but so far.... I've decided the Sherlock Batman Holmes coat-cape will never be. The fabric just isn't right. It is too heavy and doesn't drape well enough to let those sleeves be themselves. Plus, I interfaced the sleeve seams as directed and I shouldn't have.

The lesson to all new sew-ist-ers out there? Just keep plugging away. I've been sewing for 26 years and I regularly make mistakes and screw things up. You'd think I'd learn, but with my slash and burn ways, well....it doesn't look hopeful.

My stint in jail

I made another New Look 6936 dress, this time in a lovely soft striped jersey I bought for $2.95 a yard. Score! I have enough fabric left over for a top and I have plans in mind for something with drawstrings on the sides.


I even broke out the twin needle for the hems! I have a confession to make. I have never used a twin needle before in my life. Isn't that lame? It was the easiest thing ever, and kind of neat how the bobbin thread gets intertwined between the top threads. I guess that's what makes it stretchy, I don't know.

What I do know is I love this dress, and I'll be wearing it to the pool and to Target quite a bit this summer.

I'm on the Train to Crazy this week!