tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-157783926709242482024-03-13T21:41:41.356-05:00Featherty SewsHeatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.comBlogger150125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-32591931952593785002014-12-08T20:04:00.002-06:002014-12-08T20:04:29.087-06:00I made a coat [with smoochy lips AND the flu]<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R9e3nDjrP5o/VIZTWmF7maI/AAAAAAAADPg/ZrOd_foIdVk/s1600/coat2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R9e3nDjrP5o/VIZTWmF7maI/AAAAAAAADPg/ZrOd_foIdVk/s1600/coat2.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Damn. I sewed the buttons on too tight.</td></tr>
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Four or five years ago, two different sewing bloggers posted beautiful projects using this same embroidered wool. I have no idea who they were now, those memories have long been wiped clean from my brain. One was a young girl from California who made a short cape out of it, and then a lady from Michigan (Mary?) who made a skirt. Mary was kind enough to share the store where she found it, so I called them and ordered the last three yards on the roll.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kcbSqjSdVFs/VIZTRja-HsI/AAAAAAAADPI/mT2GUUfZSfE/s1600/coat%2Bfabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kcbSqjSdVFs/VIZTRja-HsI/AAAAAAAADPI/mT2GUUfZSfE/s1600/coat%2Bfabric.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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And then it sat.<br />
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And sat.<br />
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I pulled it out last winter, but just couldn't bring myself to sew anything, and so back it went.<br />
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<i>Finally</i>, this fall I started looking for a suitable pattern for it. I've been terrified of ruining the fabric, but I had this realization - <i>it wasn't doing me any good sitting in a box in the basement</i>! I went back and forth between a few vintage patterns and a few modern, and finally settled on <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-8513-burda-style-coat.aspx" target="_blank">Burda 7072</a>. I liked the shorter sleeves and the princess seam pockets, it had a vintage vibe without being a vintage pattern.<br />
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Fast forward to Thanksgiving week. I had the whole week off since I'd been hoarding my vacation days {i.e. burning myself out unnecessarily} and sewing was high on my list of Things To Do.<br />
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Time is precious around here; I don't have hours on end to sew uninterrupted when the kids are home, but that lends itself perfectly to a project like this. I would go downstairs, work on one task, and then set it aside for a few hours or a day. It virtually guaranteed I was fresh every time I touched the coat, I think that helped a lot.<br />
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It also helped a lot that my sons constructed a new fort in the closet under the basement stairs. That kept them busy and out of my hair.<br />
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<i>These steps happened between Monday and Wednesday...</i><br />
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Cutting out the pattern pieces was interesting, as I was trying to maximize all of the embroidered fabric, which only ran along one side. I had to turn it crosswise to cut it. After inspecting the fabric for any moth damage, I did find a few holes but they ran along the selvage, so it's possible they were damage from the manufacturing process, too.<br />
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Anyway, the weave on this is fairly loose. I knew I needed to stabilize it, but my experience with interfacing pattern pieces for a wool coat was not great. When I did that on a <a href="http://feathertysews.blogspot.com/2011/01/sherlock-holmes-why-yes-batman-indeed.html" target="_blank">heavy black wool coating</a>, it added way too much bulk to the seams. This gray is fairly light, though, and since I couldn't figure out how to pick and choose what to interface, I decided to do it all.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GmgDbxEGplc/VHycQiRdrBI/AAAAAAAADMQ/uhDOr5JsqE4/s1600/coat%2Binterfacing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GmgDbxEGplc/VHycQiRdrBI/AAAAAAAADMQ/uhDOr5JsqE4/s1600/coat%2Binterfacing.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
Each piece got interfaced with <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_31&products_id=78&osCsid=6eb145a87fe6f1ec076beb9a4bd01a42" target="_blank">Pro-weft supreme Medium fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply</a>. I'm really impressed with it, this was the first project I used it on, and it does give body and support while maintaining drape. Excellent.<br />
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Then I had to make a decision about interlining. My lining is silk, the wool has a loose weave, and we do have a proper winter here. So after much hemming and hawing, I settled on using white muslin fabric to interline it. I could have gone with something lighter like silk organza, but I didn't want to wait for shipping and I'm happy with the muslin. I was sewing with dark gray thread and the interlining was white, so that made picking out any stitches easy!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnc_AnxjDC0/VHycQMpnR7I/AAAAAAAADMI/Z8LtiTdsWvM/s1600/coat%2Binterlining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnc_AnxjDC0/VHycQMpnR7I/AAAAAAAADMI/Z8LtiTdsWvM/s1600/coat%2Binterlining.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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One of the first decisions I had to make was the buttons and buttonholes. I knew if I wanted bound buttonholes I had to make them first, but the idea of sewing them through four layers of fabric (fabric, interfacing, interlining, welt) scared the crap out of me.<br />
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<i>Pause to celebrate Thanksgiving with my family....</i><br />
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Onwards and upwards, I practiced bound buttonholes Friday afternoon on scraps of fabric. They went ok, so I forged on with four bound buttonholes, and four corresponding welt holes. They're not perfect, instead of perfectly matched slots they look more like smoochy lips but I'm ok with that.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Pciuc42oKE/VHycQgSsTfI/AAAAAAAADMM/eGPoTwiJeXE/s1600/coat%2Bbound%2Bbuttonholes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Pciuc42oKE/VHycQgSsTfI/AAAAAAAADMM/eGPoTwiJeXE/s1600/coat%2Bbound%2Bbuttonholes.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LKZbLtA7Io0/VHycV5CEIrI/AAAAAAAADMg/YU2Um09VMBQ/s1600/coat%2Bprogress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LKZbLtA7Io0/VHycV5CEIrI/AAAAAAAADMg/YU2Um09VMBQ/s1600/coat%2Bprogress.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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This pattern is perfectly drafted and the instructions are total crap, as per usual with Burda. The sleeve/undersleeve/side pieces get attached to the front and back by sewing a 90 degree angle, but you would never have known that by reading the instructions! The first one was such a disaster, I unpicked it all and lay in bed that night visualizing what I had to do.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DaLYmSn-SVc/VHycaMJJzeI/AAAAAAAADMo/YuzKTIllyOQ/s1600/coat%2Bsleeve%2Bdisaster.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DaLYmSn-SVc/VHycaMJJzeI/AAAAAAAADMo/YuzKTIllyOQ/s1600/coat%2Bsleeve%2Bdisaster.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Total crap corner.</td></tr>
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<i>Sew up sleeve, place needle, pivot and clip corner, sew down side. </i>I went downstairs first thing in the morning to try it again.</div>
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Voila! Four perfectly sewn sleeve corners. Whew. I breathed a sigh of relief.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DmAoPymqbWw/VIZTVE_j_XI/AAAAAAAADPY/pase4YkB4us/s1600/coat%2Bsleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DmAoPymqbWw/VIZTVE_j_XI/AAAAAAAADPY/pase4YkB4us/s1600/coat%2Bsleeve.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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Until I realized that the lining pieces would have to be constructed exactly the same way. <i>Eight </i>perfectly sewn sleeve corners? Holy crap, that's pressure. But I did it, I plowed through it.<br />
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<i>And then this happened...</i><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nwHheZhFI4A/VHvKR6fxIDI/AAAAAAAADL4/YPDP7eWC5Pk/s1600/cooper%2Bflu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nwHheZhFI4A/VHvKR6fxIDI/AAAAAAAADL4/YPDP7eWC5Pk/s1600/cooper%2Bflu.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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My oldest son got super sick the Saturday after Thanksgiving, and tested positive for influenza A. My youngest took the hit on Sunday afternoon. It was fun, and by fun I mean <em>go out and get your flu shots because this sickness is <b>real </b>and it sucks. </em>I was diagnosed Tuesday.<br />
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Well, that was rough. What little energy I had disappeared, and yet I still had <b>hours</b> of sewing left! There's a reason they call these types of projects labors of love. I'm not sure I was feeling love at this point.<br />
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This blog post is starting to feel as long as the process of making the coat! On-seam pockets (once again, craptastic Burda instructions that have you sew the pocket to the side seam with a 5/8" SA. Huh?? By offsetting pockets with a 1/4" SA, the pocket lays nicely inside and you never see it. Why wouldn't they tell you that?? I did it anyway. They could have also been generous and given us a 1" bump out on the pattern pieces, but I am probably asking too much.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Ye41dOdH_g/VIZTQxlV2dI/AAAAAAAADPA/OE_noB884DA/s1600/coat%2Bfront1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Ye41dOdH_g/VIZTQxlV2dI/AAAAAAAADPA/OE_noB884DA/s1600/coat%2Bfront1.jpg" height="640" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are a few things wrong with these pictures. 1) I had ten minutes to snap them. 2) I sewed the buttons on too tight so it's pulling across the chest and 3) my tripod was set down too low by one of my kids.</td></tr>
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My lining is a silk twill I bought for $3 a yard at Hancock's many years ago, when they were selling out of their silks. I ended up with four or five lengths of wild patterned silks, perfect for linings.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_hMC9l2mb5A/VIZYWicSGdI/AAAAAAAADQo/Wql8Xyj9P84/s1600/coat%2Blining2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_hMC9l2mb5A/VIZYWicSGdI/AAAAAAAADQo/Wql8Xyj9P84/s1600/coat%2Blining2.jpg" height="640" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorry. Blurry photo.</td></tr>
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I bagged the lining, but since my facing piece was not sewn on and wasn't notched out at the bottom, I had to make up my own method for attaching the bottom and turning that corner. All of the internet tutes I could find (and the <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4366/bag-your-jacket-lining" target="_blank">Threads tutorial</a> that has nicely drawn diagrams) are for sewn-on facings with a notch out. I made do. It looks the same, maybe the order of attachment is different, I don't really even care at this point. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yhlEYaqJdI0/VIZTN1qPO3I/AAAAAAAADOw/8M1hRC2TSKo/s1600/coat%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yhlEYaqJdI0/VIZTN1qPO3I/AAAAAAAADOw/8M1hRC2TSKo/s1600/coat%2Bback.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This pattern calls for the back piece to be cut and seamed. I assumed that meant it was shaped. NO. It is not. I could have cut it on the fold. Dammit!</td></tr>
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At this point, I was at mile 23 of a 26.6 marathon. My legs were jiggly, I avoided eye contact with the coat whenever I walked by it on the dressform standing in the stairwell to the basement (she wore the coat for me to avoid it becoming a crumpled mess but I think that may have happened anyway), and I broke out in a sweat at the thought that <i>I still needed to make covered buttons and sew them on</i>. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HFud7aZiYbM/VIZTQDiXBLI/AAAAAAAADO4/ekoZikh72Cc/s1600/coat%2Bback2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HFud7aZiYbM/VIZTQDiXBLI/AAAAAAAADO4/ekoZikh72Cc/s1600/coat%2Bback2.jpg" height="640" width="456" /></a></div>
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Sweet Lord above, did I really want this coat that badly?<br />
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Apparently I did.<br />
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The buttons were made. I hated the look of them. I shopped for another week for buttons I didn't hate, and landed on these. The coat is done. And so am I.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yqhJD1PGrtY/VIZTT3jXUcI/AAAAAAAADPQ/VnSTSnYAxT4/s1600/coat1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yqhJD1PGrtY/VIZTT3jXUcI/AAAAAAAADPQ/VnSTSnYAxT4/s1600/coat1.jpg" height="640" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I need to press the bottom. I apologize for the crapbag photo quality. <br />And wouldn't this coat look fab with long gloves and a matching faux fur cowl??</td></tr>
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OK, maybe I'm not <em>done</em>. Just ready to make something simple. Like a t-shirt. Or leggings.<br />
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And shop for long gloves!Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-16406475339836063532014-12-06T09:52:00.001-06:002014-12-06T09:52:54.006-06:00How to organize your sewing projects?I'm actually looking for help here.<br />
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I have too much fabric and too many patterns, which is nothing new. Every sewist out there has this exact same problem.<br />
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I recently spent an hour going through all my sewing patterns and reclassifying them according to designer. I grouped all the Vogues together, all the indie designers, etc. It was interesting to see which company I tend to buy the most from.<br />
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Hands down, Vogue won that contest. I have two full boxes of Vogue patterns. Burda and Simplicity seem to be in a close tie for second place, and then trailing miserably are McCall's and Butterick. In fact, after going through them I weeded out a lot of McCall's and Butterick patterns I know I'll never make. I have a lot of indie patterns and a boatload of vintage patterns (they didn't get the same classification exercise as I tend to group them all together).<br />
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Anyway, what I'd really like is some sort of software or app that helps me group patterns I'd like to sew soon with fabric I already own. Does anyone know of something like that? I don't sew my wardrobe but I do want to be more deliberate with what I choose to make.<br />
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I would love to share the coat project that I finished last weekend, but I'm stumped with having no buttons that I love. I hope to make it into my favorite little fabric boutique later today, she carries a lot of buttons I don't see at the big box stores. In the meantime the coat is hanging happily on Vivienne. Fingers crossed that I can finish the buttons and start wearing it in time for church tomorrow.Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-16077955759203972312014-12-02T15:09:00.000-06:002014-12-02T15:35:00.315-06:00The lace top pantsBe prepared for the longest post ever. Seriously. Buckle up.<br />
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This fall, I was in Little Rock and made my way to their Anthropologie store, where I fell in love with <a href="http://www.anthropologie.com/anthro/product/clothes-pants/4123335854387.jsp#/" target="_blank">these pants</a>. Lace at the top, tweed at the bottom. Gorgeous, <i>and</i> they fit pretty well, too.<br />
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The only downside?<br />
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Very very <i>very</i> scratchy wool. I just have trouble wearing wool right up against my skin anymore. I get a rash on my neck, my legs get all blotchy and itchy, it's ugly. And these pants weren't lined.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vzYdABmUuiM/VH4pk2YhAkI/AAAAAAAADOg/yNVOkvt7F6c/s1600/photo%2B1%2B(4).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vzYdABmUuiM/VH4pk2YhAkI/AAAAAAAADOg/yNVOkvt7F6c/s1600/photo%2B1%2B(4).JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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So I snapped these dressing rooms pics and went home with the idea of someday making my own pair.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9js-7XPLZ2w/VH4pkKXWqKI/AAAAAAAADOY/FW9x_I0SCEE/s1600/photo%2B2%2B(4).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9js-7XPLZ2w/VH4pkKXWqKI/AAAAAAAADOY/FW9x_I0SCEE/s1600/photo%2B2%2B(4).JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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Well, that some day was last week. I had the week off for Thanksgiving, and I was working up a storm around the house. Besides these pants, I <i>finally</i> started my embroidered wool coat project that's been in the works for oh, I don't know, <i>five years. </i></div>
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I found some very soft plaid suiting at Joann's, a poly/rayon/spandex blend that feels like flannel and stretches quite a bit. It's not very dressy, and is questionable how it will wear but I got it anyway. I bought two different laces to pair it with it - teal and black - not sure of what would look best, and finally settled on classic black. Mostly because I knew I could always find a black top or sweater to wear with these.</div>
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And black shoes.<br />
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I pulled out <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-8467-misses-miss-petite-amazing-fit-pants.aspx" target="_blank">Simplicity 1696</a> and made a few adjustments. For one, I wanted a slim boot profile instead of a cropped slim pant. From the knee break to the hem (for me, that's 15" after the crotch line), I cut the legs straight down. This pattern has 1" seam allowances on the major seams which is lovely, you can make adjustments easily. I cut a 14 due to the extreme stretchiness of the plaid and the lace, although my true measurements are more of a 16 (38-30-40).<br />
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In my classic style of avoiding anything difficult, I thought I could postpone the tricky part of actually attaching the lace further down the construction process. But no. It became clear that the very first step (pockets and pocket facings) would require the lace to be attached already. Damn.<br />
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As I had been thinking about this process for a month or two already, I guess I thought I would end up snipping the lace into a shape and then hand-stitching it onto my fabric.<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iBfIlP1l4Jk/VH4mIIzKguI/AAAAAAAADNI/cNsMbmB-v0A/s1600/lace%2Bpants%2Bfabric.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></div>
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Um, no. I won the lottery with this one. After assembling the pocket facing and then turning and topstitching it, I realized <i>you can't see a damn thing on these two fabrics</i>! Between the business of the plaid and the business of this lace, the stitches seem to dissolve. I grabbed two bits of fabric for a test run, and practiced machine stitching around the lace shapes. It worked like a charm, you can't see it at all on the outside.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-29JlI9kvR2I/VH4mNf82lcI/AAAAAAAADNw/Z5ePspuAE1E/s1600/lace%2Bpants%2Bzip%2Bfly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-29JlI9kvR2I/VH4mNf82lcI/AAAAAAAADNw/Z5ePspuAE1E/s1600/lace%2Bpants%2Bzip%2Bfly.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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So that's exactly what I did. I just stitched in an irregular scallop around the bottom of the lace. The only bit of trouble I ran into was when I went to attach the pocket lining to the pocket facing, I had to unsnip a few stitches so the pocket facing would be free. Other than that, it worked like a charm.<br />
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I always use Sandra Betzina's zipper fly video to install zippers, and would have done this time except I wanted a fly shield. It's cold out here and I didn't want a cold zipper laying against the top of my belly.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A0Rp9Z0qcHM/VH4oBbVqp4I/AAAAAAAADOE/s2xqb_5u5xE/s1600/a%2Bzippers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A0Rp9Z0qcHM/VH4oBbVqp4I/AAAAAAAADOE/s2xqb_5u5xE/s1600/a%2Bzippers.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I found 25 invisible zippers in my stash when I went looking for one for these pants. And two regular zippers. WTH??</td></tr>
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I found <a href="http://thenakedseamstress.blogspot.com/2011/03/my-favorite-front-fly-zipper-tutorials.html" target="_blank">this blog post</a> from The Naked Seamstress with zipper installation methods, and followed along with Trudy's video. While I like the <i>idea</i> of a video that makes the process seem easy, this one wasn't so great. The video doesn't capture the action from above, but rather from an odd forward angle. She also chose to sew with white thread on white striped fabric. I never saw the seam lines, even when she urged the cameraman to zoom in.<br />
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I ended up with my fly shield attached to the <b>wrong side of the zipper,</b> beautifully so!<br />
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Shit. So I had to unpick the entire thing and redo it, this time doing it my way because I couldn't figure out how to reverse engineer her instructions. Maybe I'll work on doing a photo pictorial for myself to refer to next time I'm putting in a zipper with a fly shield.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IMjm9y5d12Y/VH4mJng9PfI/AAAAAAAADNk/gDHni3Zsurc/s1600/lace%2Bpants%2Bfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IMjm9y5d12Y/VH4mJng9PfI/AAAAAAAADNk/gDHni3Zsurc/s1600/lace%2Bpants%2Bfront.jpg" height="640" width="456" /></a></div>
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Anyway, zipper fixed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9mr7empbviI/VH4mD_6ZGcI/AAAAAAAADM8/QejAy9Z1doA/s1600/lace%2Bpants%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9mr7empbviI/VH4mD_6ZGcI/AAAAAAAADM8/QejAy9Z1doA/s1600/lace%2Bpants%2Bback.jpg" height="640" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plaids matched ok here. Not so much on the side seams, no idea why.</td></tr>
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The rest was classic pant assembly. I assembled the waistband by the section instead of in one piece, which is nice for fitting but I don't love the way it looks at the end. I used a simple black cotton for the waistband facing, and interfaced both that fabric and the fashion plaid because it's so stretchy. I've been burned in the past with waistbands stretching out of shape because I forgot to interface enough.<br />
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When I tried the pants on at this point, they fit pretty well but I didn't care for how low I attached the lace (7" from top of pattern pieces down), and the lace didn't scallop at all. So I got out my little snips and made tiny adjustments to the lace to make it a bit more feminine looking. I could keep going with the snips, but I stopped to finish the pants lest these turn into The Pants I Sewed for Six Months and Never Wore. It could happen. <br />
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In looking back at the inspiration pants, the lace only extends about 4 or 5 inches down from the waistband. That's something I need to work on.<br />
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I barely referred to the instructions on these at all. I glanced at them, but I guess I've made enough pants in my life that the steps are starting to form naturally in my head. So that's a win! OK, I know it's lame but whatever I'm taking it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-35_kNYSpvrY/VH4mJBFxepI/AAAAAAAADNY/IW-mVrX3QQ8/s1600/lace%2Bpants%2Bside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-35_kNYSpvrY/VH4mJBFxepI/AAAAAAAADNY/IW-mVrX3QQ8/s1600/lace%2Bpants%2Bside.jpg" height="640" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matching plaids? No. I was lucky to get the legs sewn together into a wearable form.</td></tr>
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Anyway, all in all I'm OK with the results. The pants are ridiculously comfortable to wear, and hopefully they're pretty enough nobody will think <i>did she have her elementary school son make those for her</i>? I need to snip the lace out a bit more into a scallop pattern, and I need to hem them just a tad shorter because<strong> man this fabric stretches</strong>. They don't look nearly as nice as the inspiration pants, but for a total cost of about $20 they're not bad. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z39RAWPcfco/VH4nr9s4PvI/AAAAAAAADN8/0kRsCGQ_ZNk/s1600/lace%2Bpants%2Btop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z39RAWPcfco/VH4nr9s4PvI/AAAAAAAADN8/0kRsCGQ_ZNk/s1600/lace%2Bpants%2Btop.jpg" height="456" width="640" /></a></div>
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And now. Brace yourself for the most epic-est blog post ever from me. The one where I make <i>a coat</i>.<br />
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I'm exhausted.Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-86564315435615933902014-11-24T15:34:00.000-06:002014-11-24T15:34:00.560-06:00Sometimes simple is really really greatI made a flannel t-shirt, and I love it.<br />
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You read that right. A flannel t-shirt.<br />
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Years ago, I used a vintage t-shirt pattern to make <a href="http://feathertysews.blogspot.com/2011/02/dinos-like-tees-too.html" target="_blank">the stegosaurus tee</a>, and wore it to death. I loved the vintage fit and the way the center back seam fitted the shirt much better than my more current patterns did.<br />
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Then more recently, I found <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/207908748/1973-v-neck-sailor-collar-knit-top-scoop?ref=sr_gallery_2&ga_search_query=simplicity+5523&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery" target="_blank">this vintage pattern</a> (Simplicity 5523) in my stash and made up this quick lobster tee to see how it fit. The shoulders were <i>very</i> wide (something I've noticed a lot in my patterns from the seventies; I think maybe it's because their knits really didn't have much stretch) but I loved the shirttail hemline, the scoop is just right, and so I have been stewing on the needed modifications ever since. <i>When you get to the bottom of this post, you'll see my plea for help.</i><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C2h8yBiBvDo/VHNyRHMdYRI/AAAAAAAADLo/toY-uu6eKq0/s1600/lobster%2Btee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C2h8yBiBvDo/VHNyRHMdYRI/AAAAAAAADLo/toY-uu6eKq0/s1600/lobster%2Btee.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
The boys and I made our way to Joann's Saturday morning to buy flannel for their very first sewing projects. Both of my boys plus two of their friends want to learn how to sew! I can't tell you how excited I was to hear that. I thought pajama pants would be an easy first project that they would also really like to own, so we hunted for flannel.<br />
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While at Joann's, I found this plaid flannel for myself, from their Plaiditudes line. It pills quite a bit, so I can't say I'm super impressed with the washability but it is very warm and cosy and super soft. So that's the upside.<br />
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I will literally buy <i>anything</i> that combines gray and camel. Anything.<br />
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Anyway, while thinking about how that pattern fit, and thinking maybe it would be better suited for a woven instead of knits, I decided I needed a flannel tee. Something I can wear under my cardigans on days that are frigid, but without the collar and buttons of a more structured shirt.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-alNsxiT71sM/VHNyI134UjI/AAAAAAAADK8/L43YPEATeJo/s1600/flannel%2Bback2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-alNsxiT71sM/VHNyI134UjI/AAAAAAAADK8/L43YPEATeJo/s1600/flannel%2Bback2.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></div>
It took 30 or 40 minutes to pop this baby together, and I love it! I was right, the fit is spot on in a woven. I did a little slash and spread for a dart at the bustline, and narrowed the shoulders by 1/2" on either side. For this one, I cut the back on the fold instead of shaped with a center seam. I also added a ribbed neckband and used bias tape for the shirttail hem. I had a doctor's appointment today, and my nurse said <i>"That is the cutest top! I love it!,"</i> so there. A real human out in the world approved of my flannel t-shirt.<br />
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Now is where I'm turning to you, kind internets, to help me. The bias tape sewed quite nicely along the hem, but starting and stopping it at the upturned corner was a bad idea (see close-up photo). I have never sewn much with bias binding, I could use some advanced tips.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YfpvrAtdt88/VHNyN_CdGqI/AAAAAAAADLU/jmm6TVN9QpU/s1600/flannel%2Bcloseup2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YfpvrAtdt88/VHNyN_CdGqI/AAAAAAAADLU/jmm6TVN9QpU/s1600/flannel%2Bcloseup2.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<ul>
<li>Where is the best place to start attaching bias tape on a hemline like this? </li>
<li>Should I have used satin bias instead? </li>
<li>Should I have clipped the curve at the corners to make it turn better or was I trying to force too much fabric into that curve?</li>
</ul>
OK, that's it for my questions. If anyone can help me, please weigh in!<br />
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So now I'd like to comment on something that really makes me shake my head. I recently found the darkside of the sewing blogs, the forum whose entire goal seems to be to mock people who choose to sew and post their creations online. It really makes me question the heart of humanity. I'm not going to say there aren't posts that have merit, such as the questionable greed of "designing" simple patterns like an a-line skirt, and then charging $16 for it. I've been frustrated by that myself and written about it here. But my option is to <b>not buy them</b>. I just do <i>not</i> see the need to be hateful and vicious <i><b>about sewing </b>{not that there's ever an excuse to be hateful and vicious, but seriously ~ sewing??}</i>. What starts out as a seemingly fair-balanced vent on the price of simple patterns will turn into an all-out mockery of a blogger's body. Or God forbid, you have <i>drag lines</i>! The shame! Hey, I buy very nice ready-to-wear clothing that has those same lines. Is anyone outing DVF for that? I doubt it.<br />
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You know what my head was thinking when I read some of that? <br />
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These people need real problems.<br />
<br />Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-85916737691057920752014-11-21T14:44:00.001-06:002014-11-30T09:47:10.658-06:00I love you, Burda 7031I am so happy. I have been admiring this lace bonded sweater knit fabric at Joann's all fall but it was $39.99 a yard and you all know with my track record for ruining projects I really can't be trusted with pricey fabric. I finally got a coupon texted to me for 25% off my total purchase, and the fabric went on 50% off sale. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hJusIH7TpOE/VG-g_Zr5WYI/AAAAAAAADKI/F_3bBwwZC0E/s1600/burda%2Btop%2Bfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hJusIH7TpOE/VG-g_Zr5WYI/AAAAAAAADKI/F_3bBwwZC0E/s1600/burda%2Btop%2Bfront.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burda 7031 View C</td></tr>
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Woot! I bought it, not even knowing what I would make with it. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zad9ZUSQ5zE/VG-hdgZlXyI/AAAAAAAADKY/CrVZ6FOWixA/s1600/vict_street_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zad9ZUSQ5zE/VG-hdgZlXyI/AAAAAAAADKY/CrVZ6FOWixA/s1600/vict_street_1.jpg" height="316" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Francis jacket pattern by C'est Dimanche, also in my pattern stash</td></tr>
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At first, I had planned to sew up <a href="http://cestdimanche.bigcartel.com/product/patron-victoria-street" target="_blank">this jacket</a> by C'est Dimanche. But then I spent way too much time going through my pattern boxes the other night (holy cow, I need to thin that herd) looking for the perfect coat pattern for an embroidered wool I've owned for four years, when I came across this pattern.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3YGtKID70Fk/VG-h8VkUKtI/AAAAAAAADKg/-LFgqt27XHE/s1600/burda%2B7031%2Bline%2Bdrawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3YGtKID70Fk/VG-h8VkUKtI/AAAAAAAADKg/-LFgqt27XHE/s1600/burda%2B7031%2Bline%2Bdrawing.jpg" height="320" width="219" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I made view C</td></tr>
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I bought <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-9803-burda-style-dress-shirt.aspx" target="_blank">Burda 7031</a> late last winter, after seeing a soloist at church wearing an adorable lined lace top. The shape was similar to this one, so I optimistically added it to my pattern stash.<br />
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I pulled the pattern out and studied the navy blue fabric in View C. It reminded me of the weight of this bonded sweater lace.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_DZASVMpYmA/VG-iZnlmaqI/AAAAAAAADKo/44MiUs3QoY0/s1600/burda%2Bfabric%2Bcloseup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_DZASVMpYmA/VG-iZnlmaqI/AAAAAAAADKo/44MiUs3QoY0/s1600/burda%2Bfabric%2Bcloseup.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closeup of the fabric, you can see the white fluffy parts are where the lace is bonded to the sweater knit.</td></tr>
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I started cutting this out at 3:00 yesterday afternoon, took a break from 4:00-4:30, sewed til 5:15, and then finished it at 9:15. Honestly, cutting and sewing took all of 2 hours, maybe even less.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vLgHWfqAUO0/VG-g_8oe_pI/AAAAAAAADKM/nadyY_-LOfY/s1600/burda%2Btop%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vLgHWfqAUO0/VG-g_8oe_pI/AAAAAAAADKM/nadyY_-LOfY/s1600/burda%2Btop%2Bback.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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And even though it's a touch big I love it! Seriously, I love it. I have no idea why.<br />
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I went upstairs to take pictures with my taupe trousers and they're missing. So for these photos I've paired it with <a href="http://www.qvc.com/G.I.L.I.-Faux-Leather-Pencil-Skirt.product.A256257.html?sc=A256257-Zone&cm_scid=zone&cm_sp=MERCHZONE-_-Featured:+Easy+Pay+Offers-_-1" target="_blank">my wash and wear pleather skirt from QVC</a>, another favorite purchase of mine this fall.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qzFAilgNuSU/VG-g6MSOvxI/AAAAAAAADJg/zv-CHd1Fov0/s1600/burda%2Bme1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qzFAilgNuSU/VG-g6MSOvxI/AAAAAAAADJg/zv-CHd1Fov0/s1600/burda%2Bme1.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I never style my photos! The GOMI people scare me. But I think this time it will be ok.</td></tr>
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I even put on <a href="http://www.qvc.com/G.I.L.I.-Courtney-Perforated-Leather-Ankle-Boots.product.A254586.html?sc=A254586-SRCH&cm_sp=VIEWPOSITION-_-1-_-A254586&catentryImage=http://images.qvc.com/is/image/a/86/a254586.001?$uslarge$" target="_blank">high heels</a>! Another QVC purchase. I share the links because I'm always frustrated when I see footwear that isn't documented.<br />
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Back to the pattern. Let's talk about the wonky "collar." Yes, they do call this a collar. Do you know those crazy kids at Burda actually suggest that you can add <strong>batting</strong> to the collar piece if you want it to have more body?? BATTING. I chose not to do that, it stands up plenty on its own.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0mW_0o5-oA/VG-g8jbTJuI/AAAAAAAADJ8/kGuf5HnmOmk/s1600/burda%2Bme5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0mW_0o5-oA/VG-g8jbTJuI/AAAAAAAADJ8/kGuf5HnmOmk/s1600/burda%2Bme5.jpg" height="228" width="320" /></a></div>
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I sewed most of the seams on my machine and pressed them open. At first I was treating this fabric delicately, but by the end I was pressing the hell out it with full steam and I couldn't tell a difference at all. That's nice, I don't have a "delicate" lifestyle.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1s5uNKrGdds/VG-g7I1nJ0I/AAAAAAAADJk/wcN2AuBnV3U/s1600/burda%2Bme2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1s5uNKrGdds/VG-g7I1nJ0I/AAAAAAAADJk/wcN2AuBnV3U/s1600/burda%2Bme2.jpg" height="228" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I wanted you to see how the sleeves bell out just a little bit at the end. So. Much. Fun.</td></tr>
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Then I goofed amd sewed the collar, the hem band, and the center back seam with my serger. That much bulk under one seam made for some ripples and difficulty pressing the seam to one direction, which was super important when tacking down the collar and hem band. In hindsight, I should have used the machine for all the seams and my serger for finishing edges.<br />
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All in all, I'm super happy with this top! I will wear this quite a bit for work, especially if I can track down those taupe trousers. I have to call the dry cleaners, I have a feeling they never made it home.Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-57451550859357141952014-11-19T14:35:00.001-06:002014-11-19T14:35:36.733-06:00On making pantsI was away from home last week for work, so I had a lot of time on my hands to research sewing techniques. Namely, <i>making pants</i>.<br />
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<b>Making great pants</b> is one of my sewing goals. That, and slowing down. Honestly, I probably stand a better chance of making kick-ass pants than I do slowing down.<br />
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I guess I can understand why drafting pants patterns is so difficult. All human bodies are shaped differently, and with pants you're trying to engineer something to cover the most moving-est part of your body. And cover it <em>well</em>, so that you can move freely and look kick-ass at the same time. That's a lot of pressure.<br />
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For this past trip, I packed three of my favorite professional pants, plus some fun leggings.<br />
<ul>
<li>Theory ankle-length slim-leg stretch wool trousers</li>
<li>J Crew grey wool straight leg trousers </li>
<li>Anthropologie seamed cropped stretch wool trousers </li>
<li>Vince stretch suede cropped pants, cut much like a legging </li>
</ul>
I had some time in my hotel room to take them all, turn them inside out, and look at what was similar or different about them all. Lucky for me I carry a tiny tape measure in my purse at all times. You never know when you'll find yourself in Home Goods and need to measure the height of a super cute chair!<br />
<br />
One thing I noticed right off the bat is the crotch curve is very different in my ready to wear pants than in some of my sewing patterns.
I'm used to seeing a full back curve but also a fairly deep front curve, similar to two Js.<br />
<br />
In my ready-to-wear pants, however, the front curve is almost nonexistent, and the back crotch curve is very deep. I need to repeat that, it is <i><b>very deep</b></i>. Instead of a J, it more resembles a fishhook that sticks out at the end in a point.<br />
<br />
I'm now obsessed with perfecting the perfect pants pattern based on my ready-to-wear pants. I came home and made what I had hoped to be a wearable muslin from <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-8467-misses-miss-petite-amazing-fit-pants.aspx" target="_blank">Simplicity 1696</a>. <br />
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I made a classic mistake of choosing the wrong fabric, a stretch cotton that behaved and wore a lot like velveteen. It was just too heavy and bulky for this pattern, but it would make a lovely blazer or skinny jeans. When I finally tried them on, they were quite unwieldy like they fought back a little? Weird.<br />
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I do believe with some adjustments this pattern could be a keeper for me. The rise was good, I love the 1" seam allowances, and the legs weren't super voluminous. I even blindly followed their ridiculous instructions for a fly zipper and it turned out ok. I kind of forgot while I was cutting out the fabric to change the pattern piece to reflect a cut-on fly, so I stayed the course and followed the instructions as closely as I could.<br />
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The only thing I really didn't love was the fake welt pockets. I know a lot of people don't like extra fabric volume on their backside, but I do appreciate a real pocket. I always try to stick my hands in fake pockets, I don't know why. Like a pocket bag will magically appear somehow.<br />
<br />
While I was gone my new <a href="http://papercutpatterns.com/collections/pants-skirts/products/peter-the-wolf-pants" target="_blank">Peter and the Wolf</a> pants pattern from <a href="http://papercutpatterns.com/" target="_blank">Papercut Patterns</a> arrived in the mail <i>{I do support indie pattern designers, I just like to spend my money on original designs I haven't seen before}</i>! I did a little happy dance. For all of you in the US considering Papercut, keep in mind the dollars they reference on their website are New Zealand dollars. For me, the price including shipping from New Zealand to the States was $25, so not as bad as it could have been.<br />
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I spent my last hour of the night last night cutting the instruction booklet out and putting it together, then tracing off the pattern pieces. If you haven't purchased a Papercut pattern before, they come in this adorable cardboard box and they're printed on large natural paper sheets. You know I must be motivated to find great pants patterns when I'm tracing patterns. It is NOT my favorite thing to do in the sewing room.<br />
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This pattern calls for stretch wovens, but I hope to be able to make a pair in a non-stretch wool for work. It also only includes 1 cm seam allowances, so I'm definitely going to have to increase that just a<em> tad</em> to account for my crazy behavior behind the machine!<br />
<br />
Honestly, I know I need to slow down with my sewing. I will never enjoy the process or the finished products if I slam through them and fail to make wearable garments.
A couple days ago, in order to find an 'early make' for <a href="http://www.bimbleandpimble.com/" target="_blank">#bpSewvember</a>, I went all the way back to my first sewing posts from my personal blog. You know what? Not much has changed. I made easy mistakes back then and I still make them now. While the walk down memory lane was fun, it was also <i>painful</i>.<br />
<br />
<i>Why do I do that? </i><br />
<i>Why does my brain malfunction and let me cut through a piece of fabric that needs to stay intact? </i><br />
<br />
I don't know. I really don't.
I just know I don't want to do it anymore.
So from here on out, I hope to report that I'm taking my time. That I'm creating quality over quantity. That I'm drafting responsibly and sewing methodically.
<br />
<br />
Oh, and that I'm making kick-ass pants.Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-7206612047207646322014-11-09T08:00:00.000-06:002014-11-09T08:08:51.466-06:00Anna Maria Horner knit topI should probably never go on the internet and look at things. Because then I get ideas and those ideas make me spend money and buy fabric.<br />
<br />
Like these <a href="https://www.fabric.com/SearchResults2.aspx?Source=Header&SearchText=anna+maria+horner+interlock&CategoryID=1d5f47dc-9991-4088-93f3-26a376046a5e" target="_blank">beautiful Anna Maria Horner interlock knits</a>. I bought them from <a href="http://fabric.com/">Fabric.com</a> a few months ago after seeing something stunning AMH had made <i>{no need to pick just one, it's like endless eye candy with her designs}</i>. Her fabrics are so vibrant and unique, I seriously love them all. I've even bought some of her home dec fabrics so that I can frame them and hang them on the wall in the sewing room.<br />
<br />
Which I will totally do, one of these days.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ruQdo4WwqTA/VF0JnNCdmuI/AAAAAAAADHg/NWLu6Dq8WrY/s1600/amh%2Bfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ruQdo4WwqTA/VF0JnNCdmuI/AAAAAAAADHg/NWLu6Dq8WrY/s1600/amh%2Bfront.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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In the meantime, I stole a few hours these last few days and tried to make a shirt using <a href="http://feathertysews.blogspot.com/2014/10/hope-springs-eternal-free-sweatshirt.html" target="_blank">my sweatshirt shoulder pieces</a> but a t-shirt body.<br />
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I will totally wear this shirt all the time, but it's a little big around the shoulders and bust. Also, the fabric is a true interlock, so not necessarily the drapiest of fabrics. Warm and cozy and lovely, yes. Drapey, no.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8Ba8sCRThpk/VF0J7JmTfqI/AAAAAAAADIU/ePg_jLLxdrc/s1600/amh%2Bsleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8Ba8sCRThpk/VF0J7JmTfqI/AAAAAAAADIU/ePg_jLLxdrc/s1600/amh%2Bsleeve.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I didn't have enough fabric for long sleeves, so I added a band at the bottom.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DSYtHLuiqKw/VF0J6eoH96I/AAAAAAAADIM/hH4JV3hEsc4/s1600/amh%2Bhem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DSYtHLuiqKw/VF0J6eoH96I/AAAAAAAADIM/hH4JV3hEsc4/s1600/amh%2Bhem.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm really enjoying hemming with my coverstitch machine. <br />
It scared the crap out of me for a long time but now I think I have the hang of it.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I cut the neckband three inches shorter than the neck opening, but even that wasn't enough to avoid a little gaping. I've put some temporary tucks in place to keep it down, but I'll take it off and shorten it tonight after the kids go to bed. Speaking of kids, my son thought I should have "action" shots of me in my regular life. Enjoy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SuFBJdKVaJo/VF0JyBqhKbI/AAAAAAAADH0/GsHzbQ190iE/s1600/amh%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SuFBJdKVaJo/VF0JyBqhKbI/AAAAAAAADH0/GsHzbQ190iE/s1600/amh%2B3.jpg" height="294" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doing laundry.</td></tr>
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I had to run up to my kids' school after this, and one of the moms complemented me on this shirt! I was stunned.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LSyOdOt4xoI/VF0JvsInAlI/AAAAAAAADHs/Zv6eH64fcSs/s1600/amh%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LSyOdOt4xoI/VF0JvsInAlI/AAAAAAAADHs/Zv6eH64fcSs/s1600/amh%2B2.jpg" height="320" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More laundry.</td></tr>
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What are the odds that the grey and pink Tangle print would perfectly match my pink Frye cowboy boots? Love it. Another reason to wear these boots more often is a good thing. I've had them for at least five or six years and I never get tired of them.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GxYOF8QE5U8/VF0J2q68HlI/AAAAAAAADH8/2S7WMoPtw7Q/s1600/amh%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GxYOF8QE5U8/VF0J2q68HlI/AAAAAAAADH8/2S7WMoPtw7Q/s1600/amh%2B1.jpg" height="276" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seriously, can we stop with the pictures of laundry?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now, I must clean up the sewing room and take a work-induced break. My dog will be bummed.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sSxM8DGDXp8/VF0Krgx7dEI/AAAAAAAADIc/U23CDCAlu7g/s1600/sewing%2Bdog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sSxM8DGDXp8/VF0Krgx7dEI/AAAAAAAADIc/U23CDCAlu7g/s1600/sewing%2Bdog.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I like it when my mom sews.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-1974266546983586192014-11-06T18:47:00.000-06:002014-11-06T19:15:24.302-06:00The envelope tunic - a tutorialAs you know now, after my husband died three years ago I took a big long break from sewing and blogging. So long, in fact, that I didn't realize people were still leaving comments on posts and asking questions! <br />
<br />
The kind folks at <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/" target="_blank">Pattern Review</a> emailed me during this time and asked if they could share my series of posts on <a href="http://feathertysews.blogspot.com/2011/03/making-swimsuit-preparations.html" target="_blank">how to construct a swimsuit</a>? I said yes, but I wasn't sure I would be able to help much if anyone had questions as I had temporarily forgotten how to sew. They posted them anyway, and I hope they've been helpful to fellow sewers.<br />
<br />
Anyway, one of the post comments I got in the midst of all that was a request to show how I made <a href="http://feathertysews.blogspot.com/2011/02/apropos-of-nothing-top.html" target="_blank">this envelope neckline</a> in a tutorial. Better late than never!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0xJw1Cc-LRM/VFvDWCAhKII/AAAAAAAADEU/3YxW1WCTNxw/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0xJw1Cc-LRM/VFvDWCAhKII/AAAAAAAADEU/3YxW1WCTNxw/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt2.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Envelope Tunic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After twisting my brain into knots to construct jeans without a pattern, I wanted to make something easy and wearable. I pulled out this striped sweater knit I think I bought on the Red Tag table at Joann's and decided a loose tunic was in order. I matched it up with a grey slub knit from Fabric.com for the neckband. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FJZSmklueC4/VFvDaX_j7NI/AAAAAAAADEc/_CFXpF8gsRw/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FJZSmklueC4/VFvDaX_j7NI/AAAAAAAADEc/_CFXpF8gsRw/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
I recommend choosing two fabrics that match in their stretchiness, otherwise you may have to fight one or the other. Both of my fabrics are quite stretchy, as were the two I used in my first version lo those many years ago. I'm happy to report I finally sat back at my "new" Babylock coverstitch machine (purchased three years ago when the boys and I moved into this house and then promptly abandoned) to hem this top and it was so lovely I think I may start using it more. But I digress..<br />
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<strong>The Envelope Tunic - Supplies and Construction Instructions</strong></div>
<ul>
<li><strong>2 yards of stripe knit</strong> (main body fabric). For my sample, I only had 1.75 yards, so I turned the sleeve sideways, hence the stripe running vertically instead of horizontally. I kind of like it.</li>
<li><strong>6" of contrasting neckband fabric</strong> at least 32" wide</li>
<li><strong>8 buttons</strong>, mine are quite large but you can play around with sizes and colors</li>
<li><strong>A serger</strong>. OK, maybe that's not exactly a must but with the fabric I used, I simply can't imagine keeping this thing together on a regular sewing machine unless I used wooly nylon, and my Bernina hates that stuff. If you've sewn stretchy jersey on your machine with no problems, then you could do this top on a regular machine.</li>
</ul>
Make your own pattern pieces with large crafting paper or freezer paper (or literally cut as you measure, like I did). The dimensions are shown in these photos for my sample, a size Large.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ch_Bt5D1Jho/VFvGZr9ysSI/AAAAAAAADE8/FjmIzR5MZ10/s1600/envelope%2Bpattern%2Bfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ch_Bt5D1Jho/VFvGZr9ysSI/AAAAAAAADE8/FjmIzR5MZ10/s1600/envelope%2Bpattern%2Bfront.jpg" height="298" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front pattern piece. See my note below, you may want to cut the neckline 5-6" deep instead of 4".</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tEpkJ-Db9yY/VFvGcdCCH3I/AAAAAAAADFI/FJP9JN4FsK4/s1600/envelope%2Bpattern%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tEpkJ-Db9yY/VFvGcdCCH3I/AAAAAAAADFI/FJP9JN4FsK4/s1600/envelope%2Bpattern%2Bback.jpg" height="320" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back pattern piece, total length is 27" unless you want the back a bit longer than the front, then cut it longer.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Sex1iSnZ0es/VFvGa7w3plI/AAAAAAAADFA/jiXMq4hGFC8/s1600/envelope%2Bpattern%2Bsleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Sex1iSnZ0es/VFvGa7w3plI/AAAAAAAADFA/jiXMq4hGFC8/s1600/envelope%2Bpattern%2Bsleeve.jpg" height="173" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeve pattern</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After all your pieces are cut, fold the two neckband sections in half, wrong sides together and press with a warm iron.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SWPqfqwxYks/VFvG5QuN8AI/AAAAAAAADFY/h5jaBgu_fdc/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bbands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SWPqfqwxYks/VFvG5QuN8AI/AAAAAAAADFY/h5jaBgu_fdc/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bbands.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neckband sections</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With right sides together, pin neckband to front section and then back section.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IO9Zu4b4jgI/VFvHFErqPyI/AAAAAAAADGQ/afWx4ehUATo/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bneckband.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IO9Zu4b4jgI/VFvHFErqPyI/AAAAAAAADGQ/afWx4ehUATo/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bneckband.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Serge or stitch the neckband to the front, then repeat this step again for the back. You will have two pieces that look like this:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3XxIJkymXJo/VFwcu9nJx-I/AAAAAAAADHQ/NHVhGHyzsvI/s1600/005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3XxIJkymXJo/VFwcu9nJx-I/AAAAAAAADHQ/NHVhGHyzsvI/s1600/005.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<em>*Now this is where I pinned the front and back together, pulled it on over my head and checked to see if the neckline fit in the right spot. After wearing it today, I'm convinced the neckline in front should be a least one inch lower than my pattern states, so you may want to cut the front curve deeper after trying on.*</em><br />
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Lay the back over the front so that the neckband overlaps completely but doesn't lap into the body of the shirt, baste to hold in place, leaving 12" opening for pulling on. <br />
<em></em><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cWYBLlfpQUo/VFvG92_oxOI/AAAAAAAADFk/AThrEi_ZPnQ/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bbasting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cWYBLlfpQUo/VFvG92_oxOI/AAAAAAAADFk/AThrEi_ZPnQ/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bbasting.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baste the sections together, lapping the back neckband over the front neckband.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With right sides together, attach sleeves in the flat to each side. This step essentially "closes" the envelope for good.<br />
<br />
Right sides together, sew side seams and sleeves together.<br />
<br />
Sew buttons onto basted neckband. I placed mine 3" apart starting at the opening and working back towards the shoulder. I also considered using mismatched buttons from my grandmother's stash but I decided against it in the end. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tlukF8UhMRA/VFvHBlY1F8I/AAAAAAAADF8/DJBTJTosLf8/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bmismatched%2Bbuttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tlukF8UhMRA/VFvHBlY1F8I/AAAAAAAADF8/DJBTJTosLf8/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bmismatched%2Bbuttons.jpg" height="320" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mismatched buttons?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I'm very lucky to have a sewing machine that has a button attachment presser foot, so sewing on 8 buttons takes no time at all.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ar766yixlJM/VFvG9b7fAoI/AAAAAAAADFg/GYNrp6O5BXk/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bbutton%2Battachment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ar766yixlJM/VFvG9b7fAoI/AAAAAAAADFg/GYNrp6O5BXk/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bbutton%2Battachment.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Hem the bottom and sleeves and wear it!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-udqHrrQUTyA/VFvHEbSoeqI/AAAAAAAADGI/eyekzFNC5pQ/s1600/envelope%2Btunic%2Bwearing2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-udqHrrQUTyA/VFvHEbSoeqI/AAAAAAAADGI/eyekzFNC5pQ/s1600/envelope%2Btunic%2Bwearing2.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You see this stash? This is why I should not step foot into a fabric store again.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nCUAX6BHJaw/VFvHBmBvaCI/AAAAAAAADF4/1DqDsC72BhE/s1600/envelope%2Btunic%2Bwearing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nCUAX6BHJaw/VFvHBmBvaCI/AAAAAAAADF4/1DqDsC72BhE/s1600/envelope%2Btunic%2Bwearing.jpg" height="320" width="204" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cargo skinnies - Cabi<br />
Cowboy boots - Frye Carson</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Let me know if you have any questions about the construction or want to share your own version, I would love to see them!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Opmo2XCrvv4/VFvmkB4Uj-I/AAAAAAAADGs/AbGbuMabQu4/s1600/envelope%2Blake%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Opmo2XCrvv4/VFvmkB4Uj-I/AAAAAAAADGs/AbGbuMabQu4/s1600/envelope%2Blake%2B1.jpg" height="320" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freezing cold + super strong wind = not a good day for photo shoot.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zaAFQXtlXDk/VFvDbO2sQoI/AAAAAAAADEk/QTGW16kC7wc/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bshoulder2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zaAFQXtlXDk/VFvDbO2sQoI/AAAAAAAADEk/QTGW16kC7wc/s1600/envelope%2Bshirt%2Bshoulder2.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Very hard to take a selfie of your shoulder!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This top only took a couple hours from start to finish, and I had a lot of fun sifting through my grandma's old buttons. She passed away twelve years ago, and I inherited her sewing supplies and machine (a Bernina). She and I both used to share a fondness for Molnlycke thread. They've since been discontinued, apparently Coats and Clark bought the company and then closed it! Can you believe that? Probably because they had a <em>far superior product</em>. I still use those threads today and after all this time they are still so much better than C+C, which I try never to buy unless I'm desperate. <br />
<br />
Metrosene and Gutermann are nice, but I'll probably pine away for Molnlycke for a long time.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_tGjL8InzQ/VFvDbRY5nDI/AAAAAAAADEo/NhAYOt8FgL0/s1600/molynlycke%2Bthread.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_tGjL8InzQ/VFvDbRY5nDI/AAAAAAAADEo/NhAYOt8FgL0/s1600/molynlycke%2Bthread.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Molnlycke thread and my grandma's buttons</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7g1qPzMdAcQ/VFvmlJn2U0I/AAAAAAAADG4/wiUbHINgEsI/s1600/envelope%2Blake%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7g1qPzMdAcQ/VFvmlJn2U0I/AAAAAAAADG4/wiUbHINgEsI/s1600/envelope%2Blake%2B2.jpg" height="320" width="261" /></a></div>
Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-56459569831170671862014-11-05T09:45:00.001-06:002014-11-05T09:51:33.536-06:00I make things I don't needI don't know why I don't just change the name of this blog. Any number of titles would be more appropriate than Featherty Sews.<br />
<ul>
<li>I Make Things I Don't Need</li>
<li>Sewing With Attention Deficit Disorder {<i>I'm not sure I actually have that, but it feels like it when I step into the sewing room.</i>}</li>
<li>I Should be Cleaning {<i>or substitute Cooking, Working, Exercising, Reading...</i>}</li>
<li>How to Make a Wadder</li>
</ul>
Case in point - I made jeans. Because I need more jeans like I need more pajama bottoms, that's what I decided to make the other day.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tbKLYGH4zoA/VFpDCp5UXOI/AAAAAAAADDg/YGJ_jyOkOsk/s1600/jeans%2Bfront%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tbKLYGH4zoA/VFpDCp5UXOI/AAAAAAAADDg/YGJ_jyOkOsk/s1600/jeans%2Bfront%2B4.jpg" height="400" width="285" /></a></div>
And did I follow a commercial pattern with easy to read instructions, you ask?<br />
<br />
No. I decided to take a pair of pull-on skinny jeans I bought off the Home Shopping Network last year, cut them up, make changes to the fit and details, and sew a pair myself with no instructions. <i>Because I have no time and a million other things I should be doing</i>.<br />
<br />
I believe this is a sickness.<br />
<br />
Anyway, here's the story. For my real job, I cover a vast territory - Missouri, Arkansas, Oklahoma and New Mexico. Last week I spent a few days in Oklahoma and found myself in the Joann's in Tulsa before I was due to be back at the airport. They had a lovely little piece of animal print stretch denim on the remnant table that somehow reminded me of <a href="http://pulsinchen.blogspot.de/2013/11/was-neues-fur-die-beine.html?showComment=1384414285023#c5387126570516373412" target="_blank">these jeans</a> made by Elke of <a href="http://pulsinchen.blogspot.de/" target="_blank">Pulsinchen</a>. I love foreign bloggers, even if I don't understand a word they're writing and Google Translate is only moderately helpful. My only wish is that they would share more info on where they buy their <i>shoes</i>. They all have fabulous boots.<br />
<br />
Anyway, I got the denim for $8, stuffed it into my carry-on and flew home to hug my kids. After I washed it, a lot of the animal print was worn off - total bummer, but sometimes I think you can still see the hide?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fbt9-UJ5g4I/VFpDEyynBYI/AAAAAAAADDw/0xcgVGfoiIk/s1600/jeans%2Bside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fbt9-UJ5g4I/VFpDEyynBYI/AAAAAAAADDw/0xcgVGfoiIk/s1600/jeans%2Bside.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></div>
A few days later, I pulled out the cut-up pieces of those skinny jeans I've had for a while now. The price was great ($20!) but the pockets were so small they made my butt look enormous. Plus, they were way too short, but that's something at my height I'm used to. And then while the fit was OK for the price, the crotch seam hung a little too low for my comfort and the calves were very tight.<br />
<br />
The piece of denim was only 1 5/8 yards, which was a little short to make a pair of jeans, but I managed to make it work. The waistband is pieced together in sections, although with the elastic on the inside I can't feel it. I considered removing the denim waistband and replacing it with a knit yoga-style waistband but those remind me of maternity jeans so I opted to leave it alone for now.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-scm1nHQooF4/VFpC_YbUEmI/AAAAAAAADDM/itbCjvcf8dI/s1600/jeans%2Bback%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-scm1nHQooF4/VFpC_YbUEmI/AAAAAAAADDM/itbCjvcf8dI/s1600/jeans%2Bback%2B1.jpg" height="228" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see the pieced seams in this picture, and a little bit of the hide print, too.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I wanted them to be pull-on, with a faux-fly front but no actual zipper. Most of the tops I wear are long enough to cover the tops of my jeans (or longer) so I am not worried about my make-do waistband showing at all.<br />
<br />
If my belly is showing, I have bigger problems.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xkCgrjjPe8c/VFpC_JiJ9HI/AAAAAAAADDI/oUesnyIz_Ro/s1600/jeans%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xkCgrjjPe8c/VFpC_JiJ9HI/AAAAAAAADDI/oUesnyIz_Ro/s1600/jeans%2Bback.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wow, look at all those lines! I am thinking of taking the inseam out a little to make them less tight, we'll see if that fixes the lines. To be fair, my RTW jeans do the same thing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I used a pair of my own Hudson jeans to copy the pocket design and size, and made sure the placement wasn't too high. When pockets are high on me it makes my butt look like it's sagging way down. I found the jeans buttons at Joann's for another $2 and they were surprisingly easy to install. I only wish I could find rivets for the pocket corners.<br />
<br />
I like the finished product, but I do wish the animal hide showed up more. Also, in hindsight I think I would have gone with a simpler pocket since the pattern of the denim is the focal point.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qT6NKShwjm4/VFpDBpO6tmI/AAAAAAAADDY/aAzZ0rY948M/s1600/jeans%2Bfront%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qT6NKShwjm4/VFpDBpO6tmI/AAAAAAAADDY/aAzZ0rY948M/s1600/jeans%2Bfront%2B3.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></div>
The fit changes I made, in no particular order -<br />
<ul>
<li>I cut the pieces with 1" seam allowances to make adjustments to the legs as needed. In the end, I sewed 1" SA up by the waist and tapered down to 5/8" at the knee break. </li>
<li>After the knee break my ready-to-wear jeans all tend to be a tad tight, so I kept the 5/8" SA on the outside seam but eased out to 1/2" SA on the inside seam. I also measured to be sure my knee break was in the correct spot, which I've had trouble with before.</li>
<li>For the crotch curve, I raised the crotch stitching line higher in the SA from about midway down the pockets through to the front where the "zipper" would be. This creates a bit more "curviness" to the bum area and less of a flat-butt effect.</li>
<li>The waistband is simply turned down and top-stitched, then elastic zig-zagged onto the inside to hold them up. They're already plenty tight, but it's for added security. I left off the belt loops on this version.</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hrKGWnoUPfc/VFpDCost8hI/AAAAAAAADDk/f1cidj9gzC8/s1600/jeans%2Bfront%2Btop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hrKGWnoUPfc/VFpDCost8hI/AAAAAAAADDk/f1cidj9gzC8/s1600/jeans%2Bfront%2Btop.jpg" height="228" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No belt loops, but so far they haven't fallen down.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At the very end, I pulled a classic Heather move and cut off a bit too much of the excess length before hemming. Yes, that's right friends, one of the reasons I decided to slash up my original pair was they were too short. And I carelessly cut these pants that I labored over for hours too short. BIG SIGH.<br />
<br />
Oh, well, live and learn. I already have a new piece of stretch velveteen ready to go for a different pair that will hopefully not get slashed to bits by my own hands. Wish me luck.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2bGdHduGMCE/VFpHNn50EUI/AAAAAAAADEE/vBu6_PTWOoY/s1600/jeans%2Bfront%2Bclosed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2bGdHduGMCE/VFpHNn50EUI/AAAAAAAADEE/vBu6_PTWOoY/s1600/jeans%2Bfront%2Bclosed.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sweater - Evereve cashmere cardigan<br />
Boots - Lucky Brand I found at TJMaxx a few weeks ago</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-52225931045852463692014-10-21T09:24:00.000-05:002014-11-30T09:46:46.883-06:00Remember Seinfeld's puffy shirt?About a week ago I saw that Vogue had released some new patterns for a holiday collection. I paged through the new releases and found four shirt patterns I really liked that I could see myself wearing.<br />
<br />
For whatever reason, Vogue 9059 was one of them.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HqYpPaDdAXQ/VEZq-94GwSI/AAAAAAAADC4/Y83OSfnyxys/s1600/photo-3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HqYpPaDdAXQ/VEZq-94GwSI/AAAAAAAADC4/Y83OSfnyxys/s1600/photo-3.JPG" height="320" title="" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 9059</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I think it's the golden yellow that got me. Or maybe the fancy sleeve application? I am a sucker for sleeves if you remember.<br />
<br />
In walking through Hancock's, I found this pretty melon colored mystery polyester for 80% off the sticker price. It was $.99 a yard! So I got three yards and picked up the new Vogue patterns and off I went.<br />
<br />
I had a few free hours to myself last night (my mom took the boys to dinner) so I started in on this blouse. I managed to get it cut out and start in on the front before I realized this was going to be a wadder. Instead of stopping midway, I really wanted to see what it would look like with these sleeves, so I put the rest of it together, albeit in an abbreviated way.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nxs9a6dP6ws/VEZp0mus7qI/AAAAAAAADCU/vl73oEIfVqQ/s1600/photo%2B1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nxs9a6dP6ws/VEZp0mus7qI/AAAAAAAADCU/vl73oEIfVqQ/s1600/photo%2B1.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yikes, look how hideous the fabric hangs!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Check out how big the sleeve piece is. This fabric is a full 60" wide and the pattern piece doesn't even fit on it, you have to turn it to fit the grainline. Also, this is my kitchen island, you can see how big the sleeve is!!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8n6tRAHxljM/VEZp5QG_BfI/AAAAAAAADCo/5iS_IFx5F2Q/s1600/photo-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8n6tRAHxljM/VEZp5QG_BfI/AAAAAAAADCo/5iS_IFx5F2Q/s1600/photo-2.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
All I can say is YUCK.<br />
<br />
The sleeves are interesting, but they're gigantic. You could remove six or eight inches of volume and still have an interesting sleeve.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KJn1WOrI8xI/VEZpzefrjxI/AAAAAAAADCM/92LKiiupe3o/s1600/photo%2B2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KJn1WOrI8xI/VEZpzefrjxI/AAAAAAAADCM/92LKiiupe3o/s1600/photo%2B2.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
Right off the bat, I messed up the hidden placket. I've sewn them in before and had no problems but for some reason this fabric gave me fits and when I was done I realized I was missing the buttonhole shield. That's when I decided to make this as a muslin so to see if it was even worth it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DuU1JWPz_Uo/VEZp1q6OagI/AAAAAAAADCc/n7_2e5ZFuMc/s1600/photo%2B3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DuU1JWPz_Uo/VEZp1q6OagI/AAAAAAAADCc/n7_2e5ZFuMc/s1600/photo%2B3.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
It was doomed. Last night I still was optimistic and thought maybe I would make it again in a better fabric with less sleeve volume but in the light of day this top is so bad I'm not sure I have the guts to try again.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w6rv10a7pAc/VEZp4UN2mhI/AAAAAAAADCk/MJnkTXd8sY8/s1600/photo%2B4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w6rv10a7pAc/VEZp4UN2mhI/AAAAAAAADCk/MJnkTXd8sY8/s1600/photo%2B4.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Onwards and upwards, I guess?Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-70813901670859242942014-10-11T10:52:00.001-05:002014-10-15T17:59:55.146-05:00Under construction...Pardon the dust, I'm trying to configure a new layout for the blog that's a bit more up to date with technology. I'm also ready to post a new project that I made this morning with a free pattern, so check back later for updates....<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uoHFR7rTQas/VD78Yc9NBZI/AAAAAAAADBc/DoyUV4fv1iI/s1600/IMG_1900.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uoHFR7rTQas/VD78Yc9NBZI/AAAAAAAADBc/DoyUV4fv1iI/s1600/IMG_1900.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-70712217736982024402014-10-06T18:24:00.004-05:002014-10-15T19:24:57.734-05:00Hope springs eternal - free sweatshirt patternLast winter, when I still wasn't sewing, I bought an adorable sweatshirt with zippers on a diagonal at the shoulders. I wore it a few times before I had to admit that the sleeves were too short and the body was way too short. I like to wear leggings and yoga pants and I don't like my bum exposed. Plus I wanted it to have a more shaped shape instead of a boxy shape.<br />
<br />
I took it downstairs and traced the pieces off onto craft paper, noting my wish list, before giving it away.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pbpk3BZBUBI/VDMgOKFfO-I/AAAAAAAAC_Q/47HxNf7YEXg/s1600/sweatshirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pbpk3BZBUBI/VDMgOKFfO-I/AAAAAAAAC_Q/47HxNf7YEXg/s1600/sweatshirt.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></div>
I should be working on the Cookie jacket, but instead the other night I decided to pull out some sweatshirt terry (feels kind of like a heavy French terry?) and take a stab at making it longer.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cZFTtv6yvFk/VDMgPEbxXEI/AAAAAAAAC_Y/KMNAU7jMfMA/s1600/sweatshirt2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cZFTtv6yvFk/VDMgPEbxXEI/AAAAAAAAC_Y/KMNAU7jMfMA/s1600/sweatshirt2.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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I could use a little more room around the belly and the front ended up a little longer than I'd like, but otherwise I am super happy with it. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fl_RK6ZpUtc/VDMgPsoohTI/AAAAAAAAC_c/0NR0nOP3Crs/s1600/sweatshirt3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fl_RK6ZpUtc/VDMgPsoohTI/AAAAAAAAC_c/0NR0nOP3Crs/s1600/sweatshirt3.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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After having a mini-rant on the availability of free sewing patterns, I decided to trace off my pattern and share it so that anyone else who wants to make one can do it without paying for the pattern. <br />
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_PMwBJLjVlZcVR4T0ttZlk4U2s/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">This is the link to the pattern.</a> There are NO SEAM ALLOWANCES printed on the pattern - be sure to add your own!<br />
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I'll post some simple instructions at the end of this post and if anyone has any questions about the construction process please feel free to email me at heathertyfeatherty@gmail.com.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ARkjeVdeynQ/VDMgRF1hVfI/AAAAAAAAC_o/jRwDIHSjPTA/s1600/sweatshirt4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ARkjeVdeynQ/VDMgRF1hVfI/AAAAAAAAC_o/jRwDIHSjPTA/s1600/sweatshirt4.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></div>
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<strong><u>Hope Springs Eternal Sweatshirt</u></strong></div>
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This pattern is for a size 10/12 or Large. My measurements are 38 bust/30 waist/40 hips. I haven't yet graded it to other sizes (or drafted it into Illustrator for that matter), so you will most likely need to make adjustments. I'm also quite tall, so please pin-fit the pattern to yourself before cutting your fabric!</div>
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I added almost six inches in length to the body. You may want to remove that extra length in the middle of the bodice sections. I marked one section with a dotted line where it would be appropriate to fold and remove excess fabric, repeat for other three pattern pieces if you choose to do that. </div>
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You will see I added pattern pieces for neckline facings but you may choose to simply turn and stitch down your neckline, or finish it some other way.</div>
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<strong>The pattern is a PDF file and is printed three pages across and five down for a total of 15 pages.</strong> </div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_PMwBJLjVlZcVR4T0ttZlk4U2s/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">This is the link to the pattern.</a> There are NO SEAM ALLOWANCES printed on the pattern! Be sure to add your own. I cut it with 1/2" allowance to leave room to let it out in certain key areas.<br />
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1. Sew side front sections to front.</div>
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2. Sew side back sections to back.</div>
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3. Attach zipper to upper front bodice.</div>
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4. Attach other side of zipper to upper front shoulder section.</div>
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5. Attach back bodice to back shoulder section.</div>
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6.. Pin-fit the front and back to you or your dress form to ensure proper fit.</div>
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7. Finish the neckline to your taste, using the methods below:</div>
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7a. Attach front facing to front section, then trim seam and topstitch 5/8" away from edge, turning at zipper edge to catch zipper ends neatly inside the facing.</div>
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7b. Attach back facing to back section and shoulders, trim seam and topstitch 5/8" away from edge, repeating zipper technique.</div>
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OR 7c. Turn neckline down and topstitch/finish to your taste. </div>
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8. OPTIONAL - attach kangaroo pocket to front. Turn pocket edges down and topstitch before sewing pocket to front section along top, bottom and sides.</div>
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9. Attach sleeves flat.</div>
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10. Sew side seams all the way through sleeve.</div>
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11. Hem bottom.</div>
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Voila! Please let me know if I've forgotten steps along the way or if you have any questions. I'll try to check email regularly. If there are any technical difficulties with downloading or printing from Google Docs I'll try to fix them or I can email the PDF file.</div>
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Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-29433207232006803192014-09-11T15:35:00.003-05:002014-09-11T15:35:59.205-05:00The Schoolhouse Tunic<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've had the pattern for the <a href="http://sewliberated.com/products/schoolhouse-tunic-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Schoolhouse Tunic by Sew Liberated</a> for a looong time. So long I don't actually remember when I bought it? Anyway, I recently came across an old review for it and was inspired.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-irdAQ132-VI/VBID0n2xR9I/AAAAAAAAC9c/hwLDuivenWY/s1600/schoolhouse%2Bfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-irdAQ132-VI/VBID0n2xR9I/AAAAAAAAC9c/hwLDuivenWY/s1600/schoolhouse%2Bfront.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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Remember how I made a vow to ONLY sew from stash? Yeah, I broke that already. I was at Joann's and found this remnant of sueded rayon on the Red Tag table. It was less than two yards and somewhere between 45" and 60" wide, but I managed to squeeze a tunic out of it.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MJnBV8P3OZY/VBIDwDD_MfI/AAAAAAAAC9E/0zlHkU_XjS0/s1600/front%2Bschoolhouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MJnBV8P3OZY/VBIDwDD_MfI/AAAAAAAAC9E/0zlHkU_XjS0/s1600/front%2Bschoolhouse.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></div>
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Sorry for the less than stellar photos, I'm still trying to find a spot in my house with good lighting and a place to set my camera! I know, I need to invest in a tripod. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DgVwAYaUM54/VBIDwZnQoFI/AAAAAAAAC9I/xNYbwoEy00E/s1600/back2%2Bschoolhouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DgVwAYaUM54/VBIDwZnQoFI/AAAAAAAAC9I/xNYbwoEy00E/s1600/back2%2Bschoolhouse.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></div>
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OK, so here are my thoughts on this pattern in no particular order. I cut a 10/12 and then proceeded to remove at least three inches of ease from the front and two inches from the back skirt sections. The chest and back fit ok but I wasn't interested in having a voluminous top around my bum. If you wanted a more "poet's tunic" look, definitely leave the original ease in the skirt sections. Also, I cut in a shirttail hem, which I'm loving these days.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Wx0NTvdO18/VBIDwOy29eI/AAAAAAAAC9M/pKjBOR1xS9M/s1600/back%2Bschoolhouse%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Wx0NTvdO18/VBIDwOy29eI/AAAAAAAAC9M/pKjBOR1xS9M/s1600/back%2Bschoolhouse%2B2.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></div>
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Why am I calling them skirt sections? Well, I also shortened the "tunic" length by three inches. I'm 5'10", so you can see that if I'd left the original length it would have been a dress on me. The pattern indicates a cut line for "shirt" length, but that was too short for me. So I ended up somewhere in-between.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b0wgebKxTfs/VBID0xQvWQI/AAAAAAAAC9g/AIixKIPZrQo/s1600/schoolhouse%2Bbuttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b0wgebKxTfs/VBID0xQvWQI/AAAAAAAAC9g/AIixKIPZrQo/s1600/schoolhouse%2Bbuttons.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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In order to snazz it up a little, I sewed on rhinestone buttons at the neckline, added a button loop, and then did the same to the sleeves. Oh, I forgot to mention I cut down the sleeves quite a bit, using the 10/12 size at the shoulders and then grading down to the smallest size, 2/4. I wanted skinny sleeves.<br />
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<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h-SkhyM2Nnk/VBID1i4cPXI/AAAAAAAAC9s/3DKrOFjVnwA/s1600/schoolhouse%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h-SkhyM2Nnk/VBID1i4cPXI/AAAAAAAAC9s/3DKrOFjVnwA/s1600/schoolhouse%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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In all, I'm happy with the end result. I will definitely wear this top a lot with leggings and skinny jeans, and I think the fabric lends it a little bit of a dressy look it wouldn't otherwise have? It was a bear to work with but I'm glad I found the remnant when I did. </div>
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Next up, I have the fabric and pattern ready to start on my <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/163390433/pdf-sewing-pattern-women-zipper-blouson?ref=sr_gallery_1&ga_search_query=cookie+jacket+pattern&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery" target="_blank">Cookie jacket</a>. I'm nervous! Wish me luck.<br />
<br />Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-62613798234210932322014-09-03T21:44:00.000-05:002014-09-05T10:09:41.646-05:00Waffle PatternsGood and bad news to report. I started making <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9026-products-48750.php?page_id=260" target="_blank">Vogue 9026</a> but it sadly ended up in the garbage bin. There's no mechanism for any shaping whatsoever and I screwed up the neck and ribbing. I also realized I'd forgotten to account for 5/8" seam allowances while I was serging it and had already installed the waistband.<br />
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Instead of fumbling around trying to make lemonade out of it, I saved myself the time and tossed it. I may go back and make it again, but if I do I'll consider the fabric carefully. I had chosen a few different weights of jersey and that really isn't going to work on that pattern. At the very least, the front and back and probably the waistband all need to be the same heft.<br />
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Not to worry though!<br />
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In my momentary grief about the failed project, I stumbled upon something wonderful! It's an etsy shop that sells original PDF sewing patterns called <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/WafflePatterns?ref=ss_profile" target="_blank">Waffle Patterns</a>. I should probably have a button on this blog that says "I Heart Etsy," because I really do.<br />
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Blinded by inspiration, I downloaded two patterns.<br />
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/163390433/pdf-sewing-pattern-women-zipper-blouson?ref=shop_home_feat_3" target="_blank">This one</a>...<br />
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And <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/150999048/pdf-sewing-pattern-women-short-duffle?ref=shop_home_feat_4" target="_blank">this one</a>.<br />
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I already have the perfect fabric for the cape (called Caramel, which I love) and despite my pledge to <i>only sew from stash</i>, I'm going to have to find the perfect fabric for the zippered jacket which goes by the adorable name Cookie.<br />
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I have to be really careful because I tend to buy fabrics that I love to look at but I won't wear on my body. I recently saw an adorable camouflage wool at Joann's that I wanted to buy! I mean I love me some camo but I can't really see myself wearing a camo wool coat, you know?<br />
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Maybe it's because I was born in 1972 but I absolutely adore the retro feel of both of these patterns. Does anyone else remember when Stretch-n-Sew patterns were popular and you could buy heavy ribbing by the yard for projects like this? Those were the days.<br />
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Anyway, on to a topic that's been top of mind now that I'm thinking about sewing again ~ Indie pattern designers. Obviously, I think Waffle Patterns are beautiful but I don't know yet how I feel about the drafting. My experience with Megan Nielsen's pattern was good, the drafting and instructions were excellent and I loved that it came on tissue paper <i>like patterns are supposed to</i> {I may be a Luddite, not sure yet}. But they're expensive, there is no doubt about it.<br />
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I know sewing isn't cheaper than ready to wear, anyone who sews knows that. But there does come that moment when you have to decide <i>whether it's worth it</i>. Is it worth it to struggle through the construction process or risk buying from a new pattern designer that may or may not be quality when you could just go to the store and buy the same item for the same amount of money? This is the conflict within me. <br />
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I love that Indie pattern companies are out there, but a LOT of what I see from them are basics. A simple little top, an a-line skirt. Honestly, I'm kind of offended when I see a price tag above $7 for an unlined a-line skirt pattern! Am I the only one who feels that way?<br />
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OK, wish me luck. Hopefully the next time I report back I'll have some progress on one of these Waffle Patterns and I won't just be venting about the cost of one indie pattern.<br />
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<br />Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-21395371477989563792014-08-29T16:32:00.000-05:002014-09-05T10:09:59.136-05:00Fine. The Crescent Blouse in review. Well, I feel guilty. Here I promised I was back to sewing! Whoo-hoo! I even made <a href="http://megannielsen.com/collections/sewing-patterns/products/crescent-blouse-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">the Crescent Blouse</a> (99% counts), and then I fizzled out.<br />
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So I lugged Vivienne up into the good daylight and dressed her up to show you guys my version of Megan Nielsen's Crescent Blouse, or rather the Mullet Blouse. Which I'll explain later.<br />
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I bought the pattern and fabric back in May, when I was certain that our St. Louis summer would be a typical one - hot, humid and hot.<br />
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Surprise! We didn't get <i>real</i> heat until a few weeks ago. I think that may be why it took me two months to start it. {Apologizing up front for the watermarked photos, but apparently the Russians are stealing blog content these days??}<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F1WhWEfkd1U/VADRV9ZhEPI/AAAAAAAAC8c/woyML65KlPA/s1600/crescent%2Bcollar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F1WhWEfkd1U/VADRV9ZhEPI/AAAAAAAAC8c/woyML65KlPA/s1600/crescent%2Bcollar.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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The fabric is a pindot cotton voile I picked up at Joann's specifically for this pattern. I wanted something lightweight and breezy that wouldn't cling to me in the dead of summer. On that point, I was successful.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LiXxb8Hqid8/VADRWEK0E6I/AAAAAAAAC8g/4Ub7l2BBH2M/s1600/crescent%2Bfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LiXxb8Hqid8/VADRWEK0E6I/AAAAAAAAC8g/4Ub7l2BBH2M/s1600/crescent%2Bfront.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
The pattern is very easy to follow. Since I don't have the eyes of a new sewer anymore, it's kind of hard for me to judge whether or not a newbie could try it but I think you could. The only difficult part would be working with very small seam allowances around very tight curves. And making sure your topstitching is as good as humanly possible because all of those curves around the face and neck will show. Also, be good friends with your steam iron or it could look like crap.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XcKaUZ7gkew/VADRZP3sQlI/AAAAAAAAC80/QSQQyE_p6UI/s1600/crescent%2Bshoulder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XcKaUZ7gkew/VADRZP3sQlI/AAAAAAAAC80/QSQQyE_p6UI/s1600/crescent%2Bshoulder.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
My problem came in the sizing. I measured myself. I consulted the pattern. I consulted various reviews that had made it already, and I mistakenly settled on a Medium. My shoulders are just too broad and maybe I scrimped on my bust measurement a little (or maybe the Snickers ice cream bars I've suddenly decided I'm in love with came into play here) but either way, it's just too snug across the top. I think if I were to make it again, I'd cut a Large on top and a medium for the skirt.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zx2CA3o2WIg/VADRYkyXVHI/AAAAAAAAC8s/YQkyS88az5g/s1600/crescent%2Bside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zx2CA3o2WIg/VADRYkyXVHI/AAAAAAAAC8s/YQkyS88az5g/s1600/crescent%2Bside.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
Ahh, yes, the skirt. The style is interesting, no? I am oddly drawn to it. But you should know, there are <i>no darts</i> to speak of. I'd really have to sit down with a pencil and paper and see if darting this top would make it more flattering? Also, see that diagonal pull towards the front? That wouldn't be there if it was the right size and if it had bust darts, I'm almost certain. It's stylish and cute and flattering around the shoulders, but after the bust it's just loose and breezy.<br />
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That's why I'm calling this one the Mullet Blouse. Business up top, party on the bottom.<br />
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All it needs now is buttons and a new owner who is narrower than me (but not by too much) around the shoulders. Any takers??<br />
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<br />Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-45164227417504074772014-08-29T07:09:00.000-05:002014-08-29T07:09:07.338-05:00Interesting dilemnaOk, techy friends, help me out here. I was browsing through all Blogger's changes this morning because I can't seem to link the "share" buttons at the bottom of the posts?? Weird. Anyway, in doing so I came across the stats page.<br />
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Lo and behold, there's a Russian site out there that has copied and pasted my own hand drawings for the <a href="http://feathertysews.blogspot.com/2011/01/dalsland-wrap-anthro-knockoff-with-tute.html" target="_blank">Dalsland Wrap tutorial</a> as their own.<br />
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I emailed them to either link back the credit to me or remove the drawings.<br />
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What else can I do? Do I actually have any control over this kind of thing from Russian internet piracy?<br />
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Thank you!<br />
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HHeatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-734001043836556652014-08-28T19:50:00.001-05:002014-08-28T20:44:34.213-05:00Welcome to my new normalI had such high hopes for my return to the sewing room! I was going to tackle <a href="http://megannielsen.com/products/crescent-blouse-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">the Crescent Blouse</a> by Megan Nielsen. <br />
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I did tackle the Crescent Blouse by Megan Nielsen, but sadly it's probably going to end up a wadder. It's not a bad pattern, and if you are drawn to it then by all means do make it, but the end result just wasn't for me.<br />
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I am not a fan of exposed arms. You know, the trend where a sleeve looks like it was slit with a box cutter up the side? But I really thought I could handle the exposure of the Crescent, it seemed different than the rest for some reason.<br />
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Alas, it was not to be. I am fairly broad in the shoulders and while the rest of the blouse fit me, the shoulders were <em>tight</em>. This is only a problem when you choose to sew with a delicate voile that's held together at the shoulders with slim little 1/2" seams. I just pictured the whole thing blowing up on me in the grocery store. It's still sitting in my sewing room, waiting for the final buttons to be added. {I will add a photo of it on Vivienne in the very near future, which means when the sun comes up again and I can take a natural light picture for you.}<br />
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It was great to get down in the sweatshop again, though! I got organized, I cleaned up all my notions and put all my thread spools in color coordinated order. I even dragged my serger cones out of the drawer they've been in for a few years and arranged them by color as well.<br />
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So I figured, why waste all that momentum? I found myself with a free hour the other afternoon, so I flung myself downstairs and made this blue skirt. <br />
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I cut the pattern from a dress that I was wearing that day, and then decided to slice the top from the bottom in a random saddle shape. I serged the two parts back together, top-stitched the seam for a little pizzazz and added a drawstring to keep it up. I think it'll make a great runaround skirt.<br />
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And the best part is it got me back in the swing of sewing! No discouraging final results, no fit problems (other than frustration with my own shape, duh). <br />
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Sorry for the questionable photo quality, I enlisted my 8-year-old to stand on a stool and take these pictures. You get what you pay for!Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-59194903428893144572014-07-25T14:38:00.003-05:002014-07-25T14:38:22.239-05:00I haz skilzIt's been almost three years since I've written anything on these pages. Three long years.<br />
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A lot has happened to me and to my ragtag little crew in those three years.<br />
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My husband died.<br />
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We moved.<br />
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We made new friends and learned new things.<br />
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The boys are almost twice as old as they were when I posted last, at least the littlest one is.<br />
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About a year and a half ago, I decided to have our basement in the new house finished, and out of that construction came a new sewing room. It's beautiful and useful and most of the time, it's never visited. My new life just hasn't included any time for sewing. Sure, I can hem pants like a fiend. I can alter things that need altering. I even managed to make slipcovers for my kitchen chairs when we moved here.<br />
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But taking out a pattern, some fabric, and actually constructing anything <i>from scratch</i>? Nah, wasn't happening. There is <b>just no time</b>. Or is there? Was that just an excuse I was giving myself?<br />
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Last week, I made a vow to change that. I picked a pattern and some fabric, and I cut it out. I started the sewing process, ignoring all the wails and whines from the childrens. They would just have to learn to play around me while I sew. Maybe they'd even learn a few things in the process.<br />
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Wow, it felt so good to be sewing! The smell, the hum, the iron making it's weird gurgling noises. I love everything about it.<br />
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In a few days, maybe sooner, I hope to have my first, or rather, <a href="http://megannielsen.com/collections/sewing-patterns/products/crescent-blouse-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">my next project</a> finished to share. It's fun to be at it again, I can tell you that. I just wish it hadn't taken me so long.<br />
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- HHeatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-5595726025173227182011-08-12T10:49:00.001-05:002013-01-10T20:15:30.812-06:00ISO UFOsWow, it's been almost two months since I've posted. It seems like the blink of an eye, and also an eternity. Two months ago, our house has just gone on the market and the summer stretched out ahead of us. Today, the For Sale sign is gone, and our uncertain futures are stretching out in front of us.
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<br />It's been quite a summer. To give you some idea of what it's been like, I started this post two weeks ago.
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<br />You'd think with all of this I'd need a diversion and would maybe have been sewing and posting, right? Well, apparently sewing takes way more brain power than I have right now, because the few things I have tried to put together haven't gone so well.
<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JN-hAd_1Ooo/TkM72KN1aiI/AAAAAAAAC4U/KO6G0ncQPs8/s1600/111B_tech_dwg_large.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5639416960039348770" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 285px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 285px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JN-hAd_1Ooo/TkM72KN1aiI/AAAAAAAAC4U/KO6G0ncQPs8/s400/111B_tech_dwg_large.jpg" border="0" /></a>
<br />I made shorts from Burda 06-2011-111. I had found what I thought was a super cute linen-blend with wild zebra print all over it. Perfect for a mini skirt or a pair of shorts, so I thought I'd have a go of the shorts pattern. YUCK. The pattern is fine, but I decided to include the front pleats, which I <em>hated</em>. The fabric's weave was too loose for clothing and too stiff for pleats. The combination was a colossal fail.
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<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YQ7piUU3Y10/TkM72de3Y_I/AAAAAAAAC4k/FNxSZqVpnXc/s1600/Medium_EK-817.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5639416965211055090" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 251px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 251px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YQ7piUU3Y10/TkM72de3Y_I/AAAAAAAAC4k/FNxSZqVpnXc/s400/Medium_EK-817.jpg" border="0" /></a>Then I fell in love with Amy Butler's new Soul Blossoms rayon prints, and ordered <a href="http://www.fabric.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=5306ecae-9c0b-42db-9c28-594dce490a13">this pink border print from Fabric.com</a>. I cut it out in Burda 07-2011-101. No big deal, right? Simple dress. Except that I somehow managed to cut the front and back all wrong, leaving my front six inches longer than the back and forcing me to cut the border print off!
<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vD9JUXZaNkY/TkM72SeeWYI/AAAAAAAAC4c/iwJbWSMU94k/s1600/122A_tech_dwg_large.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5639416962256624002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 285px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 285px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vD9JUXZaNkY/TkM72SeeWYI/AAAAAAAAC4c/iwJbWSMU94k/s400/122A_tech_dwg_large.jpg" border="0" /></a>Anyway, the moral of the story is I am not quite yet emotionally ready to sew again. So instead I've set about finishing some unfinished objects, with mixed results. So far I've managed to take off the uninterfaced waistband on <a href="http://feathertysews.blogspot.com/2010/04/pink-pair-of-pants.html">these trouser jeans</a>, interface it, and re-attach it. I still haven't hemmed them.
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<br />Thanks for your patience. I'll be back soon, hopefully with the Soul Blossoms rayon dress to show for my absence. **crossing fingers**Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-59889412194017598232011-06-06T11:24:00.005-05:002011-06-06T11:41:25.745-05:00the Lekala drawstring top<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P0Pk5XNHyOg/Te0A_J5WVAI/AAAAAAAAC30/AKHW5dBG8X8/s1600/Lekala%2Bdrawstring%2Btop%2Bfront.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P0Pk5XNHyOg/Te0A_J5WVAI/AAAAAAAAC30/AKHW5dBG8X8/s400/Lekala%2Bdrawstring%2Btop%2Bfront.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5615145395389092866" /></a><br />I'm sure you've all read by now, but the Russian pattern site <a href="http://leko-mail.net/">Lekala</a> has their designs free for download, as long as you can use a Burda size 44. I went to the site, and fell for <a href="http://leko-mail.net/zak-e.php?mod=4019&mnk=1&f=0">this dress</a>, drawstrings and all.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oioNwwn3eUI/Te0BIIIBlqI/AAAAAAAAC4E/Mpz1s4Wg3Nc/s1600/4019.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 349px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oioNwwn3eUI/Te0BIIIBlqI/AAAAAAAAC4E/Mpz1s4Wg3Nc/s400/4019.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5615145549532599970" /></a><br />So off I went, printing and taping the pages together, cutting and plotting how I was going to make a size 44 fit. I'm usually a 40 or 42. I found that the Lekala patterns whose lines are printed single, do not include seam allowances. I double-checked, and my pattern was single so voila! I would simply stitch it up on the serger, reducing the seams by about 1/4" all around. Remarkably, this worked and the top fits.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V4ZARU2EdPY/Te0A_vLBY8I/AAAAAAAAC38/FnS_IyY9qws/s1600/Lekala%2Bdrawstring%2Btop%2Bside.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 262px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V4ZARU2EdPY/Te0A_vLBY8I/AAAAAAAAC38/FnS_IyY9qws/s400/Lekala%2Bdrawstring%2Btop%2Bside.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5615145405395329986" /></a><br />I wanted to make it up as a top in order to determine how well I'd like it as a dress? I'm still torn. It's pretty fitted and I don't know that I want to put that over my butt. Also, the back pieces are different, so there's a center seam down the back and that means there's a possibility of a crooked seam running over my butt.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W7JPEW7fBRg/Te0A-i6nBiI/AAAAAAAAC3s/Zo_uAdWa3LM/s1600/Lekala%2Bdrawstring%2Btop%2Bback.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 325px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W7JPEW7fBRg/Te0A-i6nBiI/AAAAAAAAC3s/Zo_uAdWa3LM/s400/Lekala%2Bdrawstring%2Btop%2Bback.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5615145384925398562" /></a><br />I had this piece of stripe left over from a previous project, and I like it. Of course I like it, I like stripes! But I could kick myself - I cut the bottom off about two inches too short for my taste.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TJzv4zVLGsU/Te0A-ATOvFI/AAAAAAAAC3k/akZlgmZPEXI/s1600/Lekala%2Bdrawstring%2Btop%2B001.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 288px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TJzv4zVLGsU/Te0A-ATOvFI/AAAAAAAAC3k/akZlgmZPEXI/s400/Lekala%2Bdrawstring%2Btop%2B001.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5615145375633423442" /></a><br />Anyhoo, if you haven't checked out <a href="http://leko-mail.net/">Lekala's patterns</a> yet, take a gander. You may have to tweak the sizing and there are no english instructions, but a free pattern is a free pattern! I translated the instructions from Russian on two different sites and still ended up winging it.<br /><br />Whew, two projects snuck into my "no sewing" time. Score!Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-79117590124685764592011-06-04T12:03:00.004-05:002011-06-04T12:12:50.114-05:00the I love stripes and ruching top - McCall's 6356<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zo5-2kZTwio/TepnU7Xq9fI/AAAAAAAAC3U/QDQvDJ7sd7w/s1600/McCalls%2Btop%2B002.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 323px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zo5-2kZTwio/TepnU7Xq9fI/AAAAAAAAC3U/QDQvDJ7sd7w/s400/McCalls%2Btop%2B002.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5614413494702765554" /></a><br />Whew, I snuck this one in with barely anyone noticing. Shhhh! I'm not supposed to be sewing. We put our house on the market last week and it's been all I can do to make sure it remains organized and clean. Clean is an understatement, it actually appears antiseptic right now but apparently that's what buyers want.<br /><br />After all the organizing, staging, decluttering and more decluttering, I snuck downstairs one evening and cut out this McCall's 6356 pattern in a lovely lightweight knit I picked up at Hancock's for $2 a yard. My husband was fiddling with one of his old cars, I knew I had a short window of time.<br /><br />Have I mentioned before that I love stripes? And that I love ruching? In my mind, you could ruche every surface of my body and I'd be happy. So I thought this pattern would be the perfect marriage of figure-flattering and stripes. Because I love me some stripes.<br /><br />I can tell you I will wear this top all summer long. It's lightweight like a whisper and since it's already 97 degrees here today, that's very welcome. <br /><br />What I don't like about it, can you see how far down those armholes dip?! It's insane! I am shocked my bra band doesn't show, but it doesn't. Oh, and my twin needle gave me fits on this feathery fabric and rolled the neckline collar, piercing a huge hole in it. I just turned it down some more and stitched it again. <br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SAPxg2I-5O8/TepnVYPVcFI/AAAAAAAAC3c/vrYc7LAGyY0/s1600/McCalls%2Btop%2B001.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 275px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SAPxg2I-5O8/TepnVYPVcFI/AAAAAAAAC3c/vrYc7LAGyY0/s400/McCalls%2Btop%2B001.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5614413502452428882" /></a><br />I left the hem natural after that disaster, and with all the ruching and rolling I think it looks fine.<br /><br />My next project is another stripey knit top, already cut out and waiting for 30 free minutes when I don't have to fold <em>and put away</em> laundry. Or wipe down a bathroom surface. Or empty trash cans. Or cut the grass.. sigh.Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-58325167792524662422011-05-15T13:06:00.003-05:002011-05-15T13:20:37.533-05:00Does wishing count?I'm not sewing right now. My recent trip to Vogue Fabrics was a bit of a bust. I was in such a mood, I only walked out with one piece of silk fabric to make <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1228-products-13646.php?page_id=1429&search_control=display&list=search">the Vena Cava shift dress from Vogue</a>.<br /><br />For whatever reason, I struggled through the construction of that very simple dress. At one point in trimming seam allowances for the French seam, I cut into the body fabric. At every turn, my own mojo (or lack of) was pushing against me. Finally, I set it down and walked away.<br /><br />See, we're going to be listing our house for sale in a week or two, and I kind of think this was God's way of telling me "Heather, you're supposed to be staging and de-cluttering, not sewing." Ok, ok. <br /><br />So de-cluttering it is! No more new messes, cleaning up the old ones. I have a basket full of fabrics and patterns I need to give away. If I get organized enough, I'll just post them here for the takers. If not, I'll have to drop them at a Goodwill. Can't keep everything!<br /><br />But you know what's a silver lining in all this lack-of-creativity? I was working in the sewing room yesterday, de-cluttering, organizing, packing things away into Rubbermaid containers. I stopped to lose myself in my back issues of Burda magazine, and there it was! While I can't sew for the next month or so, what I <em>can</em> do is trace patterns. <br /><br />All of the designs that I hated when they came out? Now I love them! I must be about a year behind the Burda designers. What I thought was weird last summer I think is genius this summer. <br /><br />So my roll of Swedish tracing paper is at the ready, as is my newly purchased tracing wheel (apparently my three-year-old's favorite tool of mom's to lose is the tracing wheel). Hopefully by the time my mojo returns and my domestic situation settles, I'll have all sorts of patterns to choose from. Wish me luck.<br /><br /><em>By the way, does anyone need a box full of silk scraps from old kimonos? They'd make an awesome obi belt. Email me.</em>Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-49921515557587648142011-05-01T14:03:00.003-05:002011-05-01T14:21:30.403-05:00To the holy land, via SouthwestI have to travel again this week for work. I was quite pained when I heard this news, until I heard where I'll be going. Chicago. <br /><br />Suddenly, although the pain of travelling and missing my kids wasn't lessened, there seemed to be a little light at the end of the tunnel. <br /><br /><a href="http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/home.php">Vogue Fabrics</a>. I haven't stepped foot in that store for something like 18 years? My mom and I went a few times when I was in high school and college. It will be so great to be in there as an adult, with my re-found interest in sewing for myself.<br /><br />I set about making my travel plans with two things in mind - I wanted to leave after my kids go to school so I can see them off in the morning, but with enough time to cab it over to the store and back before my meeting starts.<br /><br />I chose the lovely <a href="http://southwest.com">Southwest Airlines</a> as my carrier. I love Southwest. They're cheap, they're friendly, their flights are on time <em>almost</em> all the time, and best of all - <strong>bags fly free</strong>! I'm packing this afternoon, and although it feels a little crazy, I'm actually packing my smaller roller bag and then I'm going to zip it into my large roller bag. That way if I <em>do</em> happen to find any lovelies at Vogue Fabrics, I'll have plenty of bag space to bring it home - for free!<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HeHOfMgq2GQ/Tb2yhpjKz0I/AAAAAAAAC3A/NHLvgBNpl5s/s1600/VF106-24.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 214px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HeHOfMgq2GQ/Tb2yhpjKz0I/AAAAAAAAC3A/NHLvgBNpl5s/s400/VF106-24.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601829802677555010" /></a><br />I'm going with my new determination to dress more chicly in mind. Silks will be welcome, especially ones that are washable. I have plenty of jerseys and knits but I wouldn't be opposed to welcoming something new into the mix, like silk or linen jersey.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fj1I4zym3hk/Tb2yhwoXv1I/AAAAAAAAC3I/xm7cEr3U9CY/s1600/V8593-peacock1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 214px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fj1I4zym3hk/Tb2yhwoXv1I/AAAAAAAAC3I/xm7cEr3U9CY/s400/V8593-peacock1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601829804578422610" /></a><br />Wish me luck, I hope to be back with a post full of excitement from my trip to the Holy Land.Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-51969286088782543452011-04-30T10:43:00.003-05:002011-04-30T11:03:20.721-05:00Coverstitch or Blind hem machine?I <del>need</del> want a new toy. I thought I wanted a coverstitch machine, and the lady at my quirky little Eunice Farmer fabric store almost had me convinced to get a BabyLock a few weeks ago. Now I'm not so sure. <br /><br />What's the difference between a blind hem machine and a coverstitch machine? I basically want the ability to make clean finished hems on knits (the double-needle version without using two machines), and I'd also like to be able to add some of those fancy external seams on knit shirts that are all over my ready-to-wear clothes. <br /><br />To see an example of the fancy seams, check out <a href="http://shop.lululemon.com/products/clothes-accessories/women-jackets-and-hoodies/In-Stride-Jacket-33020?cc=8724&skuId=3409954&catId=women-jackets-and-hoodies">this jacket from Lululemon</a>. If you look at the detailed picture, you can see what I mean. Maybe I could replicate the look just by topstitching on my sewing machine? I've convinced myself I'd sew more for my boys if I could make knits that have those details.<br /><br />Any insight y'all could give me would be awesome, as I'm totally clueless when it comes to anything outside of a serger or sewing machine. Let's face it, the serger is a mysterious creature to me, too, but we've developed a happy little friendship despite the fact that I never change her needles.<br /><br />Also in the news around here, I've found a new source of inspiration. My next door neighbor is a bench scientist at Wash U. His lab has some sort of sister-school-lab in Sweden, and this year there is a young couple from Sweden doing a rotation here. <br /><br />The wife, Elin, is one of the most chic women I have ever met. The first time I saw her was at a barbecue, where she was wearing an adorable shift dress in the most outrageous red and purple zebra stripe I've ever seen. Somehow, instead of looking garish, it was phenomenal. The next time we met, she was wearing black leggings under a taupe silk tunic/dress with military details like gold buttons and epaulets on the shoulders. Even their baby girl dresses better than I do.<br /><br />Oh, and before I forget? She's pregnant. So she probably looks even more pulled together when she's <em>not</em> pregnant. Anyway, I've decided to try to track down Swedish fashion resources as inspiration because I am completely dismayed at my frumpy closet. I've spent the last few weeks pulling out my summer things and putting away winter, and it disgusts me. <br /><br />I'm dressing so casually I think I've have to dress <em>up</em> to go to yoga class (not that I do that, but if I did). I only wear pants or shorts. My tees are overworn and overwashed. My work clothes are OK, not phenomenal by any means, but it's the casual clothing that's embarassing.<br /><br />I have a stack of darling silks just ready to make up, so I'm going to work on my plans while I wait for my sewing machine to come back from the shop. {<em>sound of fingers drumming on desk</em>} Where is that machine already?!!Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15778392670924248.post-76494647240166422922011-04-25T19:07:00.003-05:002011-04-25T19:22:58.280-05:00Christian DiorIt was raining this afternoon when I picked my kids up from school. What to do? Why, stop at TJMaxx, of course. The real reason was that I have to go to Denver for another meeting this week and I feel sorely lacking in anything to wear. So I was hoping to come upon something lovely to take with me. Didn't happen.<br /><br />What did happen, was I lucked upon this blouse. A Christian Dior blouse. For $399.99.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MtNrke6q82Q/TbYPuwCI9aI/AAAAAAAAC24/aOtdlfOypEY/s1600/blouse%2Bfront.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MtNrke6q82Q/TbYPuwCI9aI/AAAAAAAAC24/aOtdlfOypEY/s400/blouse%2Bfront.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599680482524067234" /></a><br />To clarify, this is the TJMaxx that carries high end designer labels. Chloe, Gucci, Prada, etc. I got a beautiful Gucci bag there a few years ago that is still my daily handbag. <br /><br />This blouse caught my eye for one reason alone - the price tag. Four <em>hundred</em> dollars, for a white cotton short-sleeved blouse. I inspected it inside and out, trying to determine what could have possibly been worth the original price tag of $750 and I'm sorry to say I came up empty-handed. <br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CogxTebwD90/TbYPuQxvAeI/AAAAAAAAC2w/bZXmLwiYE6Q/s1600/blouse.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CogxTebwD90/TbYPuQxvAeI/AAAAAAAAC2w/bZXmLwiYE6Q/s400/blouse.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599680474133758434" /></a><br />It's white cotton, albeit a very fine cotton with a lovely hand. It has a banded collar and an open placket that closes at a very cute, refined bow. It has a skirted bottom section that's simply gathered. The most detailed part of the entire blouse are some well-placed tucks in the front placket that form fullness for the bust. <br /><br />To be fair, I did not try this on. Maybe once I did I'd be awed by the fit and have a moment whereby angels sing on high and I suddenly support the price tag. I doubt it.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZngITVMY7AA/TbYPuFAsalI/AAAAAAAAC2o/GbcRPt2CJ_8/s1600/blouse%2Btag.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZngITVMY7AA/TbYPuFAsalI/AAAAAAAAC2o/GbcRPt2CJ_8/s400/blouse%2Btag.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599680470975277650" /></a><br />Instead, what I have is inspiration! I love some of the details on this blouse, so I've added it to my already too long To-Do list, and I hope to get started just as soon as I get back from Denver. Again.Heatherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11324063002043240075noreply@blogger.com2