Hope springs eternal - free sweatshirt pattern

Last winter, when I still wasn't sewing, I bought an adorable sweatshirt with zippers on a diagonal at the shoulders. I wore it a few times before I had to admit that the sleeves were too short and the body was way too short. I like to wear leggings and yoga pants and I don't like my bum exposed. Plus I wanted it to have a more shaped shape instead of a boxy shape.

I took it downstairs and traced the pieces off onto craft paper, noting my wish list, before giving it away.

I should be working on the Cookie jacket, but instead the other night I decided to pull out some sweatshirt terry (feels kind of like a heavy French terry?) and take a stab at making it longer.

I could use a little more room around the belly and the front ended up a little longer than I'd like, but otherwise I am super happy with it.

After having a mini-rant on the availability of free sewing patterns, I decided to trace off my pattern and share it so that anyone else who wants to make one can do it without paying for the pattern. 

This is the link to the pattern. There are NO SEAM ALLOWANCES printed on the pattern - be sure to add your own!

I'll post some simple instructions at the end of this post and if anyone has any questions about the construction process please feel free to email me at heathertyfeatherty@gmail.com.

Hope Springs Eternal Sweatshirt

This pattern is for a size 10/12 or Large. My measurements are 38 bust/30 waist/40 hips. I haven't yet graded it to other sizes (or drafted it into Illustrator for that matter), so you will most likely need to make adjustments. I'm also quite tall, so please pin-fit the pattern to yourself before cutting your fabric!

I added almost six inches in length to the body. You may want to remove that extra length in the middle of the bodice sections. I marked one section with a dotted line where it would be appropriate to fold and remove excess fabric, repeat for other three pattern pieces if you choose to do that.

You will see I added pattern pieces for neckline facings but you may choose to simply turn and stitch down your neckline, or finish it some other way.

The pattern is a PDF file and is printed three pages across and five down for a total of 15 pages.

This is the link to the pattern. There are NO SEAM ALLOWANCES printed on the pattern! Be sure to add your own. I cut it with 1/2" allowance to leave room to let it out in certain key areas.

1. Sew side front sections to front.

2. Sew side back sections to back.

3. Attach zipper to upper front bodice.

4. Attach other side of zipper to upper front shoulder section.

5. Attach back bodice to back shoulder section.

6.. Pin-fit the front and back to you or your dress form to ensure proper fit.

7. Finish the neckline to your taste, using the methods below:

7a. Attach front facing to front section, then trim seam and topstitch 5/8" away from edge, turning at zipper edge to catch zipper ends neatly inside the facing.

7b. Attach back facing to back section and shoulders, trim seam and topstitch 5/8" away from edge, repeating zipper technique.

OR 7c. Turn neckline down and topstitch/finish to your taste. 

8. OPTIONAL - attach kangaroo pocket to front. Turn pocket edges down and topstitch before sewing pocket to front section along top, bottom and sides.

9. Attach sleeves flat.

10. Sew side seams all the way through sleeve.

11. Hem bottom.

Voila! Please let me know if I've forgotten steps along the way or if you have any questions. I'll try to check email regularly. If there are any technical difficulties with downloading or printing from Google Docs I'll try to fix them or I can email the PDF file.

H

The Schoolhouse Tunic

I've had the pattern for the Schoolhouse Tunic by Sew Liberated for a looong time. So long I don't actually remember when I bought it? Anyway, I recently came across an old review for it and was inspired.

Remember how I made a vow to ONLY sew from stash? Yeah, I broke that already. I was at Joann's and found this remnant of sueded rayon on the Red Tag table. It was less than two yards and somewhere between 45" and 60" wide, but I managed to squeeze a tunic out of it.

Sorry for the less than stellar photos, I'm still trying to find a spot in my house with good lighting and a place to set my camera! I know, I need to invest in a tripod. 

OK, so here are my thoughts on this pattern in no particular order.  I cut a 10/12 and then proceeded to remove at least three inches of ease from the front and two inches from the back skirt sections. The chest and back fit ok but I wasn't interested in having a voluminous top around my bum. If you wanted a more "poet's tunic" look, definitely leave the original ease in the skirt sections. Also, I cut in a shirttail hem, which I'm loving these days.

Why am I calling them skirt sections? Well, I also shortened the "tunic" length by three inches. I'm 5'10", so you can see that if I'd left the original length it would have been a dress on me. The pattern indicates a cut line for "shirt" length, but that was too short for me. So I ended up somewhere in-between.

In order to snazz it up a little, I sewed on rhinestone buttons at the neckline, added a button loop, and then did the same to the sleeves. Oh, I forgot to mention I cut down the sleeves quite a bit, using the 10/12 size at the shoulders and then grading down to the smallest size, 2/4. I wanted skinny sleeves.

In all, I'm happy with the end result. I will definitely wear this top a lot with leggings and skinny jeans, and I think the fabric lends it a little bit of a dressy look it wouldn't otherwise have? It was a bear to work with but I'm glad I found the remnant when I did. 

Next up, I have the fabric and pattern ready to start on my Cookie jacket. I'm nervous! Wish me luck.

Waffle Patterns

Good and bad news to report. I started making Vogue 9026 but it sadly ended up in the garbage bin. There's no mechanism for any shaping whatsoever and I screwed up the neck and ribbing. I also realized I'd forgotten to account for 5/8" seam allowances while I was serging it and had already installed the waistband.

Instead of fumbling around trying to make lemonade out of it, I saved myself the time and tossed it. I may go back and make it again, but if I do I'll consider the fabric carefully. I had chosen a few different weights of jersey and that really isn't going to work on that pattern. At the very least, the front and back and probably the waistband all need to be the same heft.

Not to worry though!

In my momentary grief about the failed project, I stumbled upon something wonderful! It's an etsy shop  that sells original PDF sewing patterns called Waffle Patterns. I should probably have a button on this blog that says "I Heart Etsy," because I really do.

Blinded by inspiration, I downloaded two patterns.

This one...

And this one.

I already have the perfect fabric for the cape (called Caramel, which I love) and despite my pledge to only sew from stash, I'm going to have to find the perfect fabric for the zippered jacket which goes by the adorable name Cookie.

I have to be really careful because I tend to buy fabrics that I love to look at but I won't wear on my body. I recently saw an adorable camouflage wool at Joann's that I wanted to buy! I mean I love me some camo but I can't really see myself wearing a camo wool coat, you know?

Maybe it's because I was born in 1972 but I absolutely adore the retro feel of both of these patterns. Does anyone else remember when Stretch-n-Sew patterns were popular and you could buy heavy ribbing by the yard for projects like this? Those were the days.

Anyway, on to a topic that's been top of mind now that I'm thinking about sewing again ~ Indie pattern designers. Obviously, I think Waffle Patterns are beautiful but I don't know yet how I feel about the drafting. My experience with Megan Nielsen's pattern was good, the drafting and instructions were excellent and I loved that it came on tissue paper like patterns are supposed to {I may be a Luddite, not sure yet}. But they're expensive, there is no doubt about it.

I know sewing isn't cheaper than ready to wear, anyone who sews knows that. But there does come that moment when you have to decide whether it's worth it. Is it worth it to struggle through the construction process or risk buying from a new pattern designer that may or may not be quality when you could just go to the store and buy the same item for the same amount of money? This is the conflict within me.

I love that Indie pattern companies are out there, but a LOT of what I see from them are basics. A simple little top, an a-line skirt. Honestly, I'm kind of offended when I see a price tag above $7 for an unlined a-line skirt pattern! Am I the only one who feels that way?

OK, wish me luck. Hopefully the next time I report back I'll have some progress on one of these Waffle Patterns and I won't just be venting about the cost of one indie pattern.